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1977 FXE cam question

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  #11  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549
Are you doing this at RPM , static or what>?
I have always found static is a great place to start..
You can do it with the special little tool or sneak a set of pliers in there to get total advance.
I prefer Static anyway.. then adjust from there... via "experience" or "by ear" if ya like!!! Note: Not for Everyone!! but, we always did this with the DragBike, then check with Degree Wheel to see where we ended up.... so it could be Repeated!!!
BTW, I was Taught to remove the Condenser and Twist the Advance with Fingers.. tho once I found the "tool" I get more consistent results!!! Especially with the Dyna-S for some reason.
 
  #12  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:43 AM
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Nothing wrong with static, one has to just know there is a little room left for the dynamics.
Which way that falls is dont know.
In the end, i keep running it all ahead until I get the tinkles and start back off.
The factory setting is for factory engine anyway, and not much to do with a modded engine.
 
  #13  
Old 07-21-2018, 11:12 AM
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I think at this point- it may be time to open up the cam cover to have a look at the cam. Unless you are taking the cam out- you dont have to mess with the tappets.
take a look at the timing marks - see if they line up.
some cams (ie crane and others) had an option to press the stock cam gear on yourself- someone could have retarded or advanced the timing there.
you could always go old school and use a cam timing wheel and see if it matches the cams specs.
 
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2018, 01:48 PM
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KingGlide— since the bike wouldn’t run long enough, I was attempting an initial timing setting using a test lamp. However, given the state of affairs, I couldn’t get the points to open at all. I usually use a strobe light for fine tuning but haven’t been able to with this machine as yet.
 
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Old 07-21-2018, 01:55 PM
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Me say no understand with caveman grunt, the little cam thing rotates has bumps on it to open the points.
Transparently it rotates right?
You should be able to pull the plugs and rotate the engine over (rear wheel) and watch all the kinetics.
Perhaps I just dont see the whole picture,?
 
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:35 PM
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try this first
rotate the engine around till you think its on the advance mark front cylinder

with a piece of 3/8 rubber hose put it over the front spark plug hole and blow into it > you should get resistance if not your out of time 180 degrees turn the engine over once around try again

needle nose small vise grips advance the points rotor it wants to turn in a clockwise direction

the advancer with the springs actually comes in clockwise and counterclockwise directions - confirm what way it turns for advance - counterclockwise is for flat side engines as the distributer turns backwards
 
  #17  
Old 07-21-2018, 08:49 PM
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Update---I pulled the cam cover and found that the timing marks on the cam, pinion, and breather are all dead- on where they should be. This leaves me scratching my head. The only thing I can think of is this: the motor was rebuilt and a new flywheel set was installed. I'm now wondering if the timing marks on the flywheel may be off (?)

I'll be putting everything back together tomorrow and begin to experiment with setting the timing mark at different places in and around the timing hole. As I had mentioned, I ground out the points plate adjustment grooves by about 1/4" and that brought the points closer to the high point on the lobe, but not close enough to get a test light response. So, once things are back together , more experimentation. I've bounced this off 3 good Harley mechanics i know and they also draw a blank--aside from the possibility that the flywheel marks must be off--ugh! If worse comes to worse, I can grind out the adjustment grooves more to get the points to open on the lobe. It sounds like a band aid but wtf, if nothing else works, that will.
 
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by doc308
Update---I pulled the cam cover and found that the timing marks on the cam, pinion, and breather are all dead- on where they should be. This leaves me scratching my head. The only thing I can think of is this: the motor was rebuilt and a new flywheel set was installed. I'm now wondering if the timing marks on the flywheel may be off (?)

I'll be putting everything back together tomorrow and begin to experiment with setting the timing mark at different places in and around the timing hole. As I had mentioned, I ground out the points plate adjustment grooves by about 1/4" and that brought the points closer to the high point on the lobe, but not close enough to get a test light response. So, once things are back together , more experimentation. I've bounced this off 3 good Harley mechanics i know and they also draw a blank--aside from the possibility that the flywheel marks must be off--ugh! If worse comes to worse, I can grind out the adjustment grooves more to get the points to open on the lobe. It sounds like a band aid but wtf, if nothing else works, that will.
Betting you have an aftermarket Points Plate...
 
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  #19  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:28 PM
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As I mentioned earlier ... many are junk
 

Last edited by Uncle Larry; 07-21-2018 at 10:29 PM.
  #20  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549
Couple things -
Are the advance weights frozen?
are you using the correct marks on the wheels as they have changed through the years
and even that does not mean too much if they were swapped out at some point?
Perhaps wind it up on TDC and roll it backwards and see what shows up for a mark ?
My bets a trashed advance unit, fully half the bikes I've seen running like crap it was bad. Those $29 all in one kits were real popular and that cheap advance would last about a month.
 


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