I might take you up on that George. I've resorted to making my own by annealing 3/32" copper tube from the hardware store, coiling it around a socket, and soldering the ends. The solder makes a difference, as it needs to take a lot of heat before it melts, but the last ones I took off still had a good joint. I'd order them, but the shipping costs four times what the gaskets cost, so I hold off until I need enough parts to justify the cost. Guess I haven't needed anything in quite a while.

Got your e-mail, but couldn't download any pics. Computer just kept redirecting me back to my homepage. Thanks, all the same.

 

This has been a problem for everyone who has at least 1 day of experience with a shovel. As stated before, support is the key. I wound up making my own support bracket, front and rear that supported the pipe and not putting stress on the head, and using studs.

 

You are welcome to your opinion
I won't try to talk you out of it
In 30 plus years of wrenching and riding shovels, I HAVE NEVER HAD TO TAKE OFF A PIPE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.
Perhaps you should revise your service schedule
And just for the record, that kit is as old as the hills....... but you are free to make whatever claim you like.... fine be me.....
I would be surprised if it has even been in any catalog in a long time
Seeing as you have tried to insinuate that I am a CCI junkie, I can only assume that is what you actually are
As it happens, I do not use CCI much, but it is not significant to me whether someone does or not, and I certainly would not hesitate to use anything that they have that suits my needs
did you invent liquid paper???????????

 

The kit that's been around forever has (IMO) two flaws. First, the kit uses bolts instead of studs. Second, the hex washers are thin. Putting the studs in the head prevents thread damage, which is common knowledge to anyone. Buy what you want, but if you want something that works, this is one of your options. If anyone doesn't like it, too f#@kin' bad.

By the way, I'll check my patent list and see if I had anything to do with Liquid Paper.

 

If I remember right, "Dynaman", This guy asked a question about keeping his pipes on. I gave him the answer that I think works best. Simple as that.

Now, I'm not gonna go around and around with you, trying to explain my reasons or point of view about this. Where I come from, when something doesn't work, we make it work. If anyone has a problem, and we've had the same problem, we pass it along to the next guy, because that's how real bikers work with one another.

Now kiss my ***!

 

I use the copper gaskets and studs. Works like a champ. I also have the "SHOW BIKE" acorn nut set-up. I don't care how tight you keep the pipes mounted , **** does happen!
WUZFUZ

 

now why didn't I mention the stud idea?

 

Put a stud in the head with red or green locktite. Use a regular gasket with the copper ring in the gasket. Put orange high-temp silicon on both side liberally. Let the silicon set up for a bit. Put the gasket on the pipe slide in on. Double nut with no locktite. Tighten the first nut down snug and hold it with one wrench and put the second nut on as tight as you can against the first nut. The silicon will stop pin holes from developing which is how an exhaust leak starts. Some models you can't get the pipes on with a stud. In this case use a long bolt that when it is seated ,not torqued, It will allow you to put an nut against the flange and you can hold the bolt while you tighten the nut. For the stud just use a length of all thread.

 

header locks-inexpensive find at local indy bike shop jpcycles, jegs.

 

JP Cycles, Exhaust Port Fasteners, part #4420121, $18.00.
I put them on my 96" S&S Bobber. Done worrying.