1980 FLT clutch
#1
1980 FLT clutch
The clutch in my shovelhead went out, and im looking into update the clutch a bit. I was looking around and saw a couple recommended options. One being the RIVERA ENGINEERING PRO CLUTCH KIT CHAIN 36-E84 BT 1056-0002. Another being the Barnett Scorpion. and last option i was seeing was a stockish clutch with either a tamer or a ramm jet retainer. The problem i ran into was i can not find the Rivera clutch anywhere. Everyone is sold out and has been for some time now. The Scorpion is priced higher then i would like. The stock would be fine as it has been for years, however im just looking for a bit of an upgrade. Is there any other options that anyone can recommend? The bike is a stock 80 shovelhead with 5 speed trans dry clutch.
#2
I'm sure a few other guys will chime in here - I think Rivera is gone - also - if you are looking at 35-84 its a 4 speed right? the tamer is great if you set it up correctly - ramjet also is an upgrade - both hinder the baskets travel/wobble so you reduce drag and grab - I have a BDL on one of my shovels and it is superior - I did not buy it so I cant comment on its price but it uses a fixed bearing on the basket so there is no travel and no drag or grab - it is superior - BDL still sells the kits - mine is an enclose belt primary setup with e-start
#3
maybe its me but we have no issues using the stock rollers not the long ones - the ram jet plastic retainer and I have the thin eye clips to get even closer - a green kevlor alto clutch disc set and the steels with out the springs and ball set up and a stock 3 nut hub -- foot clutch actually works better ( throw is longer ) then the hand clutch but both do the job from day one and on with that install
#4
I'm with John on this.. I do Not use the Tamer and Long rollers... I have great luck with stock setup Properly..
The Ramm Jett Is something that I always use on a Belt Primary... and Have used it with Stock.. It does what it claims..
Helpful to Know just what is trying to be Accomplished??
The Ramm Jett Is something that I always use on a Belt Primary... and Have used it with Stock.. It does what it claims..
Helpful to Know just what is trying to be Accomplished??
#5
fergerburger, it is a 5 speed and i couldnt find the rivera anymore, thats why i am asking for others. Ive had this stock clutch for so long without any issues really. I was just talking about the Ramm or tamer because of the typical movement.
Racepres, im just looking to get the ole girl back and running. If i can get a smother clutch that may work better, thats a bonus. Just really looking for what is being used and what people may recommend for reliability and performance.
Racepres, im just looking to get the ole girl back and running. If i can get a smother clutch that may work better, thats a bonus. Just really looking for what is being used and what people may recommend for reliability and performance.
Last edited by sexymanx4u; 06-22-2018 at 08:08 AM.
#6
Assemble what you Have, Correctly, and watch the "market" for the Rivera..
Many will tell ya Something is "wrong" with the old 4-speed clutch [same clutch you have] but... they Prolly can't make a Stock Carb work either!!!!
BTW John... I prefer the Anti-rattle Steels. What makes you dislike them??
Last edited by Racepres; 06-22-2018 at 09:33 AM.
#7
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#8
kevlor is what we use in the shop have 3 sets in stock all the time as it is what we do everyday - but your free to use what ever you think works best
race -- the stock 50 year old spring and ball has bit me more then once sticking and not letting it neutral one day and the next its fine
dragging at a light because they **** and wont slide out
race -- the stock 50 year old spring and ball has bit me more then once sticking and not letting it neutral one day and the next its fine
dragging at a light because they **** and wont slide out
#9
hey sexy - is it a 5 in a 4 then? tapered shaft right? anyway - JZ and twisty are 100% correct - the stock setup is quite simple, effective and easily tuned - it is imperative though that your drive plates are not warped and the friction plates are not glazed - I build a lot of hand shift bikes and clutch grab can be a problem - I experiments with various frciton plates and I would rank them as follows - 1) the thick police plates (very forgiving and smooth with good weight to reduce chatter 2) kevlar (the standard greens, either alto or drag spec) 3) the Barnett thin extra plate set 4) the red altos (glaze easy, tend to chatter after a while when used dry) There is an odd trick that can really improve the clutch when running them dry - believe it or not you scrub them with silicone spray. Seems wrong but it works. For the drive plates, the ratlle ball ones can sometimes drag a bit - so if I'm having some issues I'll typically change them out but they are more quiet especially in dry setups. I do not scuff up the plates or run them on cement or stuff like that - I might scotch brite them to freshen them up but I typically leave them alone if they are not glazed. So for the TAMER and RAMJET - they both do the same thing - they limit the travel of the basket out into the clutch pack. I run both ramjets and tamers - ramjet is easier - tamer requires some fiddling plus an extra plate - you need an extra drive plate on the inner side of the pack so the friction plate clears the tamer lip - if you dont know this you will eff up the clutch - a lot of morons pull out that plate thinking the PO did it wrong but the dude is just screwing up his setup - the tamer is actually aluminum - the ramjet is nylon - when you setup the ramjet - you should shim the clips to get at least 3 points c-clipped with the same clearance - this takes about 10 minutes for me. As for the Rivera or the BDL - I have a BDL and the basket runs on a sealed bearing - it is pressed on and does not wobble or travel - it is a very nice setup and works effortlessly without grab, chatter or any issues - you can actually take the BDL apart by just unscrewing the spring retainers - no clamps or any tools - although you will need the locking tool to deal with the clutch hub nut - I do not own a Rivera but it has an excellent reputation - they pop up quite often on ChopCult cause the chopper guys like them for handshift bikes - I would buy a BDL before the Rivera though cause BDL is still around and answers the phone. Finally, the stock clutch hub can be a problem and requires care as well. The studs wear and get knotched - they come loose as well. I braise the studs on older hubs but if the hub is not true or has any issues at all the stock setup will give you trouble.
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sexymanx4u (06-28-2018)
#10
The Rivera's seem to be gone which is a shame because they were the best shovelhead clutch hands down...I have had one since they cam out.
The good news is York makes a dead nuts copy of it...and it is cheaper to boot.
https://www.denniskirk.com/york/kevl...d=244288897359
The following users liked this post:
sexymanx4u (06-28-2018)
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