86 evo clutch help please.
I posted about this in the transmission section but didn't get much response so
I ll give it a shot here. I have a demon in my clutch. I have replaced the following with oem parts and adjusted to factory specs.
Clutch cable
Clutch finger
Clutch push rod and adjuster and bearing
Diaphragm spring
Clutch plates
Inner clutch hub
Adjuster plate
I have the diaphragm spring flat. When I adjust the cable to get the freeplay that the service manual call for my clutch drags and won't release all the way. I learned the hard way about loading the bearing and don't want to do that again. What am I missing, what else can I check. If I load the bearing the clutch will work but I like to ride more than 3 miles at a time. Please help.
I ll give it a shot here. I have a demon in my clutch. I have replaced the following with oem parts and adjusted to factory specs.
Clutch cable
Clutch finger
Clutch push rod and adjuster and bearing
Diaphragm spring
Clutch plates
Inner clutch hub
Adjuster plate
I have the diaphragm spring flat. When I adjust the cable to get the freeplay that the service manual call for my clutch drags and won't release all the way. I learned the hard way about loading the bearing and don't want to do that again. What am I missing, what else can I check. If I load the bearing the clutch will work but I like to ride more than 3 miles at a time. Please help.
Last edited by Alamondm; May 23, 2014 at 06:03 PM.
My guess its a big Twin - and it could be a softail - but i am going to guessas you did not have the correct info to give you a good answer
fxr flt Maybe - the arm the cable attaches to in the cover - has too much play - the cover is worn out
fxr flt Maybe - the arm the cable attaches to in the cover - has too much play - the cover is worn out
Sorry , forgot to say it a 86 FLHTC 5 speed. Also forgot to mention I have replaced the arm but not the cover. There is a slight bit of movement of the finger on the shaft. Maybe the shaft?
Last edited by Alamondm; May 23, 2014 at 06:19 PM.
I posted about this in the transmission section but didn't get much response so
I ll give it a shot here. I have a demon in my clutch. I have replaced the following with oem parts and adjusted to factory specs.
Clutch cable
Clutch finger
Clutch push rod and adjuster and bearing
Diaphragm spring
Clutch plates
Inner clutch hub
Adjuster plate
I have the diaphragm spring flat. When I adjust the cable to get the freeplay that the service manual call for my clutch drags and won't release all the way. I learned the hard way about loading the bearing and don't want to do that again. What am I missing, what else can I check. If I load the bearing the clutch will work but I like to ride more than 3 miles at a time. Please help.
I ll give it a shot here. I have a demon in my clutch. I have replaced the following with oem parts and adjusted to factory specs.
Clutch cable
Clutch finger
Clutch push rod and adjuster and bearing
Diaphragm spring
Clutch plates
Inner clutch hub
Adjuster plate
I have the diaphragm spring flat. When I adjust the cable to get the freeplay that the service manual call for my clutch drags and won't release all the way. I learned the hard way about loading the bearing and don't want to do that again. What am I missing, what else can I check. If I load the bearing the clutch will work but I like to ride more than 3 miles at a time. Please help.
Is it a wet or dry type clutch.
Are you using a Harley manual for specs. etc.
" loading the bearing " and " flat diaphragm spring " seem to me to be not in accordance to usual clutch adjustment .?
Can you elaborate here ?
It is a wet clutch. Using a factory service manual. The loading of the bearing I'm talking about is the throw out bearing that is not supposed to have a load on it unless you pull the clutch lever in, this is why you turn the clutch rod adjuster screw in till resistance is felt then back screw off 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. As far as the diaphragm spring the manual calls for it to be adjusted as close to flat as possible within .010 convex or concave, flat being nominal.
Need detailed info. from start to finish of current problem .
On the 90yr. Evo flhtcu 5 speed clutch adjustment at room temp 80% (If clutch discs & plates are installed in hub properly to specs) #1 the clutch lever cable adjustment is turned to it's losses point. #2 remove the clutch inspection plate on the primary housing. #3 loosen the jam nut on the adjuster screw and back the screw out for play on the clutch push rod. #4 grab the clutch cable and pull then push to seat or settle the ***** the clutch cam in side the trans housing. #5 make sure the cable is loose before you go to the clutch hub to adjust the push rod screw. Turn the push-rod screw inward to remove the slack in the outer hub-plate and the clutch-cam #6 Back out the screw tell you see the plate move to Zero lash. Turn the allen screw out a half turn if cold or three quarter of a turn if warm, tighten lock nut. #7 go to the cable adjuster and remove are the slack in the cable to the lever, pull on the lever and look at the clutch plate to see if it is working. Pop the lever out two or three time and see if the play is the same if so good now adjust the lever to one/eighth inch or to your liking. Install inspection plate on primary side and go for a ride.
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I acquired the bike about a year ago. I don't know what the previous owner had done. The clutch at the time didn't have freeplay in the lever so this has been a problem from day one. First thing I found was the clutch wasn't releasing evenly. Pulled clutch plates , inspected and reinstalled. Clutch released evenly but still no freeplay. Motor had a noise so I pulled it and sent out for a rebuild . While motor was out found inner clutch hub had a crack, found out this is common.
Replaced inner clutch hub and bearing. Got bike back together put about 500 miles on it and clutch finger went out. Found it had a heavy duty Barnett diaphragm spring. Thought this might contribute to the clutch finger breaking so I ordered a stock spring. Knowing the freeplay was an on going issue I then proceeded to order all the rest of the parts. Cable, plates, adjuster plate, rod and ends. Put it all back together and still no freeplay.
I figured hell it was fine before with no freeplay so I adjusted the clutch pack per the manual then the cable . But taking all the freeplay out with the cable adjuster. Well we all know you can't do that but I did and the throw out bearing lasted 3 miles. Ordered new rod, bearing, bearing end and adjuster from dealer and installed but this time with freeplay. Now have freeplay but clutch won't disengage all the way when lever is pulled in. I have triple checked part numbers and the manual and just don't get it. I have built a couple custom bikes and I consider myself mechanically inclined.
Only 2 things I consider suspect are the clutch cable. Bike calls for part # 38599-83a I have part # 38599-83t. And there is a very and I mean very slight bit of play between the clutch finger and the shaft that it mounts on.
Given everything you've replaced, "very slight play in shaft" is suspect, but slightly suspect. What cable you use won't make any difference.
What oil are you using in the primary? With everything adjusted to the book, is it dragging a lot or just a little? Have you tried to back the tension off the clutch pack adjuster one notch? I would try that.
What oil are you using in the primary? With everything adjusted to the book, is it dragging a lot or just a little? Have you tried to back the tension off the clutch pack adjuster one notch? I would try that.
i have had my monents with the early clutch set up and have seen bikes that never gave a care about the location of the clutch screw - but others did
granted the location is not a timing mark BUT when the cover is worn the travel distance is affected and buy that does not release the clutch enough so -i have had some luck in only turning the hub screw out till it just releases from the bearing instead of 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn - ( that sets the arm in a new spot for the start of its rotation ) if that does it along with using Dextron 3 ATF in the primary not the harley glue they sell - you know than the cover is the issue - its been a while but they still may sell them the outer cover -- johnjzjz
granted the location is not a timing mark BUT when the cover is worn the travel distance is affected and buy that does not release the clutch enough so -i have had some luck in only turning the hub screw out till it just releases from the bearing instead of 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn - ( that sets the arm in a new spot for the start of its rotation ) if that does it along with using Dextron 3 ATF in the primary not the harley glue they sell - you know than the cover is the issue - its been a while but they still may sell them the outer cover -- johnjzjz







