First time I saw that video a while back, I thought the same thing, Dan. Pretty rough.

 

This is from the 2008 Touring Electrical Diagnostic Manual ... hope it helps

 

looks like he drags it across the tank

 

Ok since I am getting short on time due to a deployment coming up I have come up with a plan to try and solve this issue. I bought a multimeter to try and help me chase down any electrical shorts. Without the pump hooked up I can turn the ignition on and there is power to the pump and it does not blow the fuse. That limits my search are to either the fuel pump or the fuel pump wires are shorting. I am not counting out the fact that there could be a short in the wires to the pump and my test light does not draw enough amps to pop the fuse so I will continue to look for a short. I ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and both fuel lines. I will test the wires and the terminal on the top plate for any shorts but I am hoping with a new fuel system it eliminates my problem. I also plan on buying a new system relay since it is cheap. I know I am throwing parts at my bike but replacing the fuel filter is probably a good idea since my bike has the original filter and it has been stored for 2 years while I was over seas. I think the bike being stored for so long may have corroded the fuel pump

 

here's a parts diagram of your tank. Pull every thing out, unhook the wires and ohm them out to see if they are shorted.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....UMP%20ASSEMBLY

 

y don't u do like u suggested run a fused line striate to the fuel pump. pump will run or blow the fuse. if it blows u found your problem.

 

The short is what draws the amperage that blows the fuse, not the test light...

If the short were in the wires between the fuse and the pump electrical connector, the fuse would blow; whether it was connected to something or not.

The fact that the fuse does not blow when the electrical connector is unplugged tells us that the short is not in that part of the circuit.



Nothing to be learned or gained by that, we already know that the fuse does not blow if the electrical connector to the pump is unplugged, and we know that the fuse blows when the pump electrical connector is plugged in.

 

Out of curiosity I decided to try your test I hard wired the pump with a 15 amp fuse and the pump ran. He'll I let it run for about 5 min and it did not blow the fuse. I am still digging around my bikes wires cause it is an electrical nightmare from the shop that wired it up. I think I have found an area of concern. In my oil tank where most of the wires meet up I am finding my wires crammed in there. To get a close look I will have to move the oil tank cause my ecm is relocated to my swing arm area. The shop that did it half assed the install and crammed all the wires down a tight spot where I think the wires are getting punched and cut on the metal. It is kind of upsetting to see this is the kind of work you get when you pay a professional.

 

Here is picture of the area where my wires are jammed in. I am sure I have to pull the oil tank off to free the wires. The part I don't understand is there is a big *** gap in the center of the two oil pump bolts where the wires could easily fit.

 

Might be week but you can try an ohm or continuity test of the 12v wire to the pump and ground. Test with no power on wire. It might be a strong enough reading to see depending on the meter