Holy ****. Was like $60 for me, on alloy wheels though. Don't need to go to Harley indy for that. Cyclegear used to do it for cheap too..

 

Btw, I will have to replace my tires soon. it's around 20k on the bike now, should I consider replacing wheel bearings as well?

 

Yea

I wasn't going to say anything until robbyville told us what his Indy charged him but that dealer quote is a backside probing without any lube. I use the local Honda dealer; they change out the tires while I wait; 20 minutes tops. Their tech does a good job, and he always aligns the red Pirelli balance mark exactly to the valve stem. I don't have them spin balance since I'm using the Ride On and they charge me $25 a wheel...

 

$66 including disposal fees and tax. Balanced etc I'm a happy guy!

Now just need to install pads and wheels, garage is 105 degrees I may wait until morning!

 

Good deal!

You're ready to add the Ride On and make some miles; get those wheels and brake pads installed

 

Shoulda got that big rotor polished. That would look great.

 

Got the brake pads, caliper, and front wheel installed this morning. Bracket fit perfectly but did have one challenge that I fixed but hopefully didn't screw up with;

The stock pads have a little tab on the side that the manual says must be pointed down (to the rear), as you can make out in the picture there is definitely a left and right pad on stockers. The lyndal's are not left and right so the tab on one side faced down, the other side faced up toward the fork tube. This caused a problem in that I couldn't get the brake pad pin bolt threaded cleanly so I decided to grind the little tab off which remedied immediately. Hope this isnt a problem? The pic shows the tabs (little bump on each side) on the stock pads.

Also, it seems like I lost a little brake fluid, less than an ounce I'd say when I found some drips and a small splash. Will this be a problem or should I go grab some fluid (if so what type)?

Overall though everything went well, brake drags a little but no excess travel in the lever, at least it doesn't seem like it on the stand.

Thanks!

 

Huh... My Lyndall's have always been left/right and the tab on both pads ends up pointing down. Are you sure you got #7256? Those directional tabs face down to prevent brake noise. Very odd; almost sounds like a packaging error and you got 2 of one side.

I'm going to venture a guess that with you grinding off the directional tab so you could correctly seat the pad you should be fine; but if you've got excessive brake noise, you'll know why

You will hear a bit of brake drag on the rotor at first, it will lessen as you bed in the pads.

DOT 4 brake fluid... when I do my brake pads I open the master and use a syringe to drain most of the fluid out before I push the pistons back in to the bores to prevent any chance of splashing or spilling the DOT 4; when you push the pistons in to the bores the fluid level in the master will rise. Once I've got the new pads installed and the caliper mounted I start adding DOT 4 to the master and flush the caliper, line, and master with fresh fluid.

I'd pick up some DOT 4 and flush your front...


EDIT: I also should have said, wherever that DOT 4 may have dripped and splashed clean it up well... brake fluid is a special sort of evil and eats paint with a zeal

 

thanks!

Yup, I double checked the part number, etc. perhaps a packaging error. If I have any problems with excessive noise I guess I'll call Lyndall. I popped the top off the master cylinder but didn't drain anything, figured that the pistons would require very little movement so didn't think there'd be much pressure. Oh well. I'll pick up some dot 4 and a syringe. If I'm just adding a little do I really need to flush the system and buy a kit?

 

You won't need any sort of kit for this; it's rather easy to do.

I'll use my Wide Glide as an example. When doing the brake pads I break the caliper bolts and the caliper bleeder loose before I ever open the master when I'm changing out the brake pads. Don't open the bleeder, just break the torque on it.

Remove the caliper; with the caliper removed and supported (I use a shop stool) I put towels on the left/low side at the front of the tank. The idea is I want to keep that front brake master as level as I can before I remove that cover; I tip the forks to the left and keep fluffing the towels under the left fork tube until the master will sit as level as it can. Use the towels until you've completed the job

I remove the cover and use a plastic syringe to suck as much of the fluid out as I can but I don't uncover the bottom of the master and risk air entering the system. I'll push the pistons in the caliper back, the fluid will have a place to go without risking the paint and I change out the pads, then put the cover back on the master and install and torque the caliper.

Slip a box end wrench on the caliper bleeder then push some clear fish tank tubing on to the bleeder and run that tubing to a plastic container. I then remove the master cover again and add DOT 4 to the master.

Now comes a touch of Cirque du Soleil I apply pressure to the brake lever and with my other hand slowly open the bleeder. I can't tell you exactly how I do that except that I'm standing in front of the master facing it; left hand on the lever, right on the box end wrench.

As you open the bleeder with pressure on the lever you'll feel the lever drop and begin to see brake fluid flow in the tubing. When the lever bottoms out hold it there, close the bleeder valve and slowly allow the lever to come back. Never let the lever start to come back with the bleeder valve open and you won't draw any air in. Also, don't let the lever move too fast or brake fluid may splash out of the master.

Again apply pressure to the lever, slowly open the bleeder; close the bleeder with lever on the grip and slowly let the lever return. As you continue that process the fluid level in the master will drop; add a bit more fluid and continue flushing. I typically will run 2 full masters of fluid through the caliper and lines then top off the master and put the rubber gasket and cover back on.

Tighten the bleeder valve, pull the rubber hose and box end wrench, fold those towels and put them back in the closet to keep mamma happy and you're done!

I can't stress enough that DOT 4 in a killer of paint jobs; clean everything. I use 99% alcohol on the master, bleeder valve, and caliper... I like my flames