There's a chance that you find that the grinding/binding is somewhere in the primary (it would be really good luck to discover it is just a rotor magnet). Get that sorted, get the motor turning freely, replace the ignition pickup, and you're good to go.

Other than whatever time it takes you to gather parts, you can easily get that done in time. And still have time left over to freshen up the carb and all that.

If your grinding is something more serious, all bets are off. Not to be pessimistic, but I doubt it's a simple as the rotor. That's really just wishful thinking.

Gotta isolate that noise first.

 

The picture of inside the cone (cam sensor) is original factory sensor.
The original has the beige goo/sealant as shown.
That one looks good.
Over time the beige goo melts and creates starting problems but NOT a problem while rolling.
When the cam sensor is really bad and melted to bottom of cone the bike will crank, then crank more, then crank more, then crank more and then when you are really pissed and take a break for a minute it will start with the slightest touch of start button.
It is reading like something simple unless the rotor magnet took stator out and that is causing some kind of stator short.
Your battery needs to be 100% to start bike.
Consider conducting a continuity test on stator wires.

 

Ordered a new sensor, carb rebuild kit, petcock, borrowed a leak down test gauge...

This weekend I'm gonna pull pushrods and verify we have had no piston contact, remove carb and rebuild, remove comp sprocket check rotor, open cam chest check that out....clean out tank again.

I'm sure I am going to find damage someplace...if I find damage in the cam chest, are the parts in there easy to get, any thought on this...I have a rally to go to next week but need a ****...I fear is I find broken parts Saturday and have to order parts.

 

It's hard (impossible) to say what you might need until you get it apart and see what's what.

The best thing to do now is call Scott at Hillside and talk this over. He's forgotten more about Evos than the rest of us will ever know, and is a friend of the forum. There's a good chance you're going to end up needing any number of parts, and he can supply them.

I wouldn't say it's impossible you get this sorted before the rally, but honestly, that seems like a stretch.

You're going to want a Factory Service Manual if you don't already have one. Your local MoCo dealer can get you one.

In the mean time, here are some pages out of the FSM to get you started:

 

It was mentioned to check the sensor under the cam cover plate already, but also take a peek at the cup behind the plate as I have seen those come loose and give a guy fits trying to locate the issue.

Griz

 

Manual arrived yesterday! I pulled carb and exhaust last night,

*tested petcock its good
*Did leak down test front and back both about 10% so I think its sake to assume valve to piston contact is not a problem.

Will be inside cam chest tonight....I have ordered every part inside there except cam!

Rebuild carb tomorrow

reassemble and fire up sunday! VICTORY....I hope:icon_moped :

 

I heard a light whine the last 50 miles or so....was so light I was questioning I heard anything...I did
Old next to new


so here's my thoughts, the sensor started to melt, the rotor started to distort.,it's rubbing on the sensor plate slowly eating the sensor....boom chunk comes out of the sensor it fails but will still randomly fire...

I make several attempts to start it backfires the rotor catches the sensor it bends even more and it hits the cover screw lug and gets wedged....I remove the primary and can move the comp sprocket almost 180deg...and I can feel the friction.....you see how this is coming together!

After random rotations I must have slowly worked the rotor past the lugs so now it turns over..

I removed that sensor tonight it turns over great...

Question.....do I still rebuild the carb...it's off already! I know the answer to this.....

Do I open the cam chest?..

 

You should buy a lottery ticket. That's as good an outcome as you could have hoped for!

Cam chest: The only reason to get in there now is to replace the inner cam bearing. You should do that sooner rather than later, but if you'd rather just get her on the road for now, it will probably be fine.

Carb: Since you've already got it off and have the kit in hand, your talking about an hour or so. I'd do it.

Congratulations! Very good news!

 

Well I think this will come together...thank you for all the feed back and advice. I will keep everybody posted , I hope I can find a rotor tomorrow....I talked to a friend and told him to send me everything in the cam chest....the rotor is really outside the cam chest.

Talk to everyone tomorrow

 

bummer...