Vibration/buzzing sensation in pegs?
#1
Vibration/buzzing sensation in pegs?
New 2015 fxdwg, 100 miles in, got a pretty significant vibration in pegs, mostly at 2000 to 2400 rpm, basically at lower cruising speeds, but happens in all gears. Improves with higher rpm, but still present. Gone when clutch is engaged
Didn't feel this during test ride, or with used dwg that I test rode
Changed to iso pegs and made no difference.
Buzzing/vibration so bad that it makes my feet go numb.
Not a crazy vibration, but a small but significant buzzing sensation in pegs
Any thoughts?
Didn't feel this during test ride, or with used dwg that I test rode
Changed to iso pegs and made no difference.
Buzzing/vibration so bad that it makes my feet go numb.
Not a crazy vibration, but a small but significant buzzing sensation in pegs
Any thoughts?
#2
New 2015 fxdwg, 100 miles in, got a pretty significant vibration in pegs, mostly at 2000 to 2400 rpm, basically at lower cruising speeds, but happens in all gears. Improves with higher rpm, but still present. Gone when clutch is engaged
Didn't feel this during test ride, or with used dwg that I test rode
Changed to iso pegs and made no difference.
Buzzing/vibration so bad that it makes my feet go numb.
Not a crazy vibration, but a small but significant buzzing sensation in pegs
Any thoughts?
Didn't feel this during test ride, or with used dwg that I test rode
Changed to iso pegs and made no difference.
Buzzing/vibration so bad that it makes my feet go numb.
Not a crazy vibration, but a small but significant buzzing sensation in pegs
Any thoughts?
#3
You're riding a V-Twin. There was a time when the headlight would shine from the road to the trees.
They will all vibrate, some rpms more than others.
A Top HD Tech that runs the Dyno answered my question about the best cruising speed for my bike in a very educated way. It's not a specific # for all bikes or any family of bikes. Ride it and when you are in TOP GEAR, watch your mirrors as you increase and decrease speed, when the image in the mirror is perfectly clear with 0 vibration that is your motorcycles optimum cruising speed.
They will all vibrate, some rpms more than others.
A Top HD Tech that runs the Dyno answered my question about the best cruising speed for my bike in a very educated way. It's not a specific # for all bikes or any family of bikes. Ride it and when you are in TOP GEAR, watch your mirrors as you increase and decrease speed, when the image in the mirror is perfectly clear with 0 vibration that is your motorcycles optimum cruising speed.
The following 2 users liked this post by TSheff:
Demons Cycle (08-17-2021),
iqbaliqbal (01-06-2018)
#5
Taking some of your advice, I rode around town with cruising at 25 miles an hour, and I'll either be in first or third gear. If I'm in second gear I get the vibration sensation.
Sound about right for you guy? Seems like 2nd gear 2000 to 2400 rpm it's worst
1st gear ar 25 mph, I'm about 3200 rpm, and vibrations are ok.
3rd gear about 1700 rpm, and pretty smooth.
But 2nd gear, about 2200 rpm its pretty bad buzzing
Sound about right for you guy? Seems like 2nd gear 2000 to 2400 rpm it's worst
1st gear ar 25 mph, I'm about 3200 rpm, and vibrations are ok.
3rd gear about 1700 rpm, and pretty smooth.
But 2nd gear, about 2200 rpm its pretty bad buzzing
The following users liked this post:
jairo (01-20-2018)
#6
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#9
The high freq vibration you feel is the product of HD's EPA compliant tuning of the engine. It creates this vibration on 75% of the bikes, usually during closed loop operation in cruise, when the 02 sensors come into play. The tune tries to "best lean" the ECM algorithm at cruise. On touring and dyna platforms the vibration usually comes thru the right foot peg / floorboard and on softails usually thru the handlebar at the right grip. It goes away with performance tuning the bike, but it's certainly not hurting anything except your senses.
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#10
I have had about 10 harleys (including some sportsters, an FXR and couple baggers) and NONE had the type of vibration my 08 dyna has. I got this one with about 9k on the odo, and FINALLY discovered that the front mount was real bad....had completely hammered down the bump stop with obviously no clearance. First thing I would do is check that clearance (just insert a screwdriver flat blade into the upper front mount gap. I had been looking at the lower gap....wrong. HD recommends min of .030 in. On your fairly new machine, it should be good, but where is this rubber coming from (Ch?)....When I changed mine, it was a miraculous improvement......my pegs would shake my feet off of them before, now just vibes, not putting feet to sleep. Second, and maybe somewhat politically incorrect, is the crank. Newer TC's should not be having this problem, but, at some point, I want to pull my cam plate for the tensioners, and will check run-out. For a new S&S it is near zero. HD will say that 3-6 mils or so is allowable, and some of the older ones have much more. This is caused by wheel rotation of the crank, and causes lots of vibration. I suspect this is why the moco used chains to drive the cams....to allow for crank runout which gears cannot tolerate. Should not be a problem on your new one.....but. Would take a couple hours of labor to check, meaning a couple hundred bucks.
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Demons Cycle (08-17-2021)