Primary still leaking
#21
#22
My outer cover is over 1/32 gap if I just push it up. They are just a casting. However, they should be smooth on both faces without any big nicks and damage from people being rough on them.
What works for me is using Harleys 3 layer gasket with the V shape. Make sure it is the face and not the inner primary seal or those inner cover seals on the bolts that hold the inner cover on.
On the outer cover, since you do not even have your year, make sure you use the gaskets on the chain adjuster if you have one.
Now put a film of Black RTV on both sides of the gasket. Not too much while it is on a fresh piece of card board. Be sure all the oil is off the cover and inner face. Now put it on and run up all bolt. Carefully using a straight screwdrive type handle driver hand torque them snug in the correct order. Do not wipe off RTV Black wet or smear it. The raised bead should be no bigger then 1/32 to 1/16 diameter. Give it 24 hours and then with a 1/4 ratchet, re torque with the extension just between your pointer and middle finger again in the correct order. (center out..up and down) (just a little twik snug) . Now with RTV dry, roll the squeezed out bead inward. Do not just grab it and pull it. Now do one heat cycle and with it hot, recheck bolts in correct order(just a little twik snug). This works for me. The bolts just tend to get tighter. You can torque wrench new stuff but old stuff is usually a bit much. Just my opinion . But I guess this takes experience. All I can really say is I am not tightening them as much as you would do with a torque wrench. The threads are clean and dry but do get a little RTV on them going in. IF YOU MESS WITH RTV BEFORE IT DRYS, IT WILL MAKE A MESS!
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What works for me is using Harleys 3 layer gasket with the V shape. Make sure it is the face and not the inner primary seal or those inner cover seals on the bolts that hold the inner cover on.
On the outer cover, since you do not even have your year, make sure you use the gaskets on the chain adjuster if you have one.
Now put a film of Black RTV on both sides of the gasket. Not too much while it is on a fresh piece of card board. Be sure all the oil is off the cover and inner face. Now put it on and run up all bolt. Carefully using a straight screwdrive type handle driver hand torque them snug in the correct order. Do not wipe off RTV Black wet or smear it. The raised bead should be no bigger then 1/32 to 1/16 diameter. Give it 24 hours and then with a 1/4 ratchet, re torque with the extension just between your pointer and middle finger again in the correct order. (center out..up and down) (just a little twik snug) . Now with RTV dry, roll the squeezed out bead inward. Do not just grab it and pull it. Now do one heat cycle and with it hot, recheck bolts in correct order(just a little twik snug). This works for me. The bolts just tend to get tighter. You can torque wrench new stuff but old stuff is usually a bit much. Just my opinion . But I guess this takes experience. All I can really say is I am not tightening them as much as you would do with a torque wrench. The threads are clean and dry but do get a little RTV on them going in. IF YOU MESS WITH RTV BEFORE IT DRYS, IT WILL MAKE A MESS!
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#23
You do not have to completely remove the swing arm to R/R the belt although I would and replace the rubber "donuts" at each side of the swing arm pivot shaft. If you don't want to do that, you can pull the pivot shaft part way out and get enough space between the swing arm and the pivot shaft boss to twist the belt at an angle and get it in.
Get the service manual; parts manual comes in hand as well but you can look at the parts on the Ronnie's HD site. You will need to lock the trans pulley with a tool or by removing the trans top cover and putting the trans in two gear at once. You will also need the IPB race R/R tool. The seals to be replace are the shift shaft seal, jack shaft sealing washer, quad seal and spacer, main shaft/5th gear seal (the problem child, lots of patience required), main shaft bearing seal (the big one). You will need the trans pulley nut deep socket and donut and might require a 3/4" drive electric impact wrench (rented) to break that one loose. You did not mention what model year but if '07 or later, the inner primary fasteners had rubber seals; they will need to be replaced. If an earlier model, you will need some RTV silicone or better would be Hylomar Blue to seal under the inner primary bolt heads and locks. Do not apply any silicone between the inner primary case and the motor case.Some other odds and ends.
Don't be intimidated by the task; not that hard but it is important to get it right so you don't have to repeat the repair. The first time I pulled an inner primary to replace the IPB race, seal and shaft, I put it back together and still had a leak. I had neglected to protect the IPB seal by taping the main shaft splines and nicked the seal lip when installing the inner primary case. Read the service manual and get a clear understanding of the task, tools and parts required before diving in. You don't want to get in the middle of the job and find that you don't have a part or tool that will take another week to get.
#24
As I said in #12, once you pull the inner primary you should replace everything while you are there; parts are cheap. I would also replace the inner primary race, bearing and seal.
You do not have to completely remove the swing arm to R/R the belt although I would and replace the rubber "donuts" at each side of the swing arm pivot shaft. If you don't want to do that, you can pull the pivot shaft part way out and get enough space between the swing arm and the pivot shaft boss to twist the belt at an angle and get it in.
Get the service manual; parts manual comes in hand as well but you can look at the parts on the Ronnie's HD site. You will need to lock the trans pulley with a tool or by removing the trans top cover and putting the trans in two gear at once. You will also need the IPB race R/R tool. The seals to be replace are the shift shaft seal, jack shaft sealing washer, quad seal and spacer, main shaft/5th gear seal (the problem child, lots of patience required), main shaft bearing seal (the big one). You will need the trans pulley nut deep socket and donut and might require a 3/4" drive electric impact wrench (rented) to break that one loose. You did not mention what model year but if '07 or later, the inner primary fasteners had rubber seals; they will need to be replaced. If an earlier model, you will need some RTV silicone or better would be Hylomar Blue to seal under the inner primary bolt heads and locks. Do not apply any silicone between the inner primary case and the motor case.Some other odds and ends.
Don't be intimidated by the task; not that hard but it is important to get it right so you don't have to repeat the repair. The first time I pulled an inner primary to replace the IPB race, seal and shaft, I put it back together and still had a leak. I had neglected to protect the IPB seal by taping the main shaft splines and nicked the seal lip when installing the inner primary case. Read the service manual and get a clear understanding of the task, tools and parts required before diving in. You don't want to get in the middle of the job and find that you don't have a part or tool that will take another week to get.
You do not have to completely remove the swing arm to R/R the belt although I would and replace the rubber "donuts" at each side of the swing arm pivot shaft. If you don't want to do that, you can pull the pivot shaft part way out and get enough space between the swing arm and the pivot shaft boss to twist the belt at an angle and get it in.
Get the service manual; parts manual comes in hand as well but you can look at the parts on the Ronnie's HD site. You will need to lock the trans pulley with a tool or by removing the trans top cover and putting the trans in two gear at once. You will also need the IPB race R/R tool. The seals to be replace are the shift shaft seal, jack shaft sealing washer, quad seal and spacer, main shaft/5th gear seal (the problem child, lots of patience required), main shaft bearing seal (the big one). You will need the trans pulley nut deep socket and donut and might require a 3/4" drive electric impact wrench (rented) to break that one loose. You did not mention what model year but if '07 or later, the inner primary fasteners had rubber seals; they will need to be replaced. If an earlier model, you will need some RTV silicone or better would be Hylomar Blue to seal under the inner primary bolt heads and locks. Do not apply any silicone between the inner primary case and the motor case.Some other odds and ends.
Don't be intimidated by the task; not that hard but it is important to get it right so you don't have to repeat the repair. The first time I pulled an inner primary to replace the IPB race, seal and shaft, I put it back together and still had a leak. I had neglected to protect the IPB seal by taping the main shaft splines and nicked the seal lip when installing the inner primary case. Read the service manual and get a clear understanding of the task, tools and parts required before diving in. You don't want to get in the middle of the job and find that you don't have a part or tool that will take another week to get.
looks like I may have hi the case?
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Espo61 (11-09-2020)
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