Hi Folks,
looking for a little info here.
Magnetti Morelli Injection .
Not looking for advice on swapping to carbed.
Both Swivel connectors on fuel tank leaking from the swivel portion.
These aren't quick connects.
Changed top orings,still leaking (didn't think it would fix it to be honest)

Is their a conversion to new style quick connects? is there a fix for these non rebuildable connectors?

Looking for advice and info, part numbers, etc.

Thanks ~Vince

 

Best answer to your question

https://www.denniskirk.com/goodridge...prd/183090.sku

https://www.jpcycles.com/harley-fuel-lines/goodridge



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gdr-hdfl005

 

 

Looked at the pics again the Amazon one is incorrect, Amazon had the Goodrich part number and picture of the correct one plus cheaper, copy and pasted and waalaa, wrong one. The right lines have banjo fittings for MM efi only

 

The Goodridge kit that 1997bagger recommended is the one I used on my 98 Road King injected. The OEM Harley lines are over double the price. If you click on my name and look at the photos, I had the same problem.
Your gonna need to lift the tank up from the backside, plus take the torsion bracket off that the horn is attached to get at the top of the injectors. It's a couple hour job.
Make sure you've got a good set of snap ring pliers. Also, when ordering the fuel line kit, buy the rebuild kit. It's only a couple bucks more for future issues.
There's many people here who have the same bike that have given great advice on potential problems to look for.
Enjoy that bike

 

The Amazon picture is incorrect, but the Goodridge part number is the right one. It is not really a difficult job. Get the o-rings, and new snap rings for the injectors. I don't recall having to remove the horn bracket when I replaced mine.

 

The Goodridge HDFL005 would be the correct fuel lines to replace the TWO external fuel lines.
A leak at the swivel is not serviceable.
The Goodridge HDFL005 can be found for about $150 USA dollars delivered and includes BOTH lines.
The fuel tank should be empty or near empty when change-out is done on a cold bike.
Be very careful when threading lines into tank...do it by hand and slowly...do not force or it WILL cross thread....the threading is at a slight angle and is NOT level.
Plenty of information on bike..what else is needed?

 

For you to post your genius level M&M Fuelie guide and then have the mods sticky it!

These questions have been coming in a fair bit recently. Lots of 20 year old bikes have been changing hands.

Thanks in advance!
Tom

 

Here is a list of common items for that Era of bike:

1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..FOR ROAD KING....speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones.

3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.

4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.

5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..

6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass) or disconnect idle control motor when plunger is relaxed/need to hold throttle for warm-up.

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.

8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittent cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.

I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if needed you get the book read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.

I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.

Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.

Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.

Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.

 

To read codes:
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric

14 engine temp. sensor

15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.