My 76 fxe that I'm in the process of getting going is leaking out of everywhere possible. Thing sat for 6 years and I'm the 3rd owner. All stock and I want to keep it that way. New plugs and points and coil. No smoke and I finally got the points right bit she's leaking from almost every seal. A couple are pretty nasty. No cracks. I think I just disturbed the sleeping giant. I'm going to pull it apart and hone the cylinders, clean carbon, and put new rings in. Maybe new valve seals too. What type of honing stones and ring size would you guys suggest? Stock not interested in big bore. First time working a shovel. Thanks.

 

1976 Harley could be over bored - 010 020 030 even 040 but 40 is too thin and they over heat

take it apart the top of the piston needs to be cleaned to see the STD or an over size number

I would tell you if its std bore you need to over size it as the pistons are center located wrist pins and its no longer round at the top and bottom of the jug

 

I'll have to check that once I pull her apart. 3 1/2 ball hones should be fine.. i think 280. Some say 320 but i don't know for shovel cylinders.

 

so what does this mean? A on front and A 4 on rear.

 

Take your cylinders to someone that can measure them precisely and they can tell you what you need. Even if you figure out the current piston size, the cylinders should be inspected and measured to determine if the next oversize piston is needed.

FYI, the 74" cylinders van be bored to +0.070" without any issue. I've run them that size before.

 

Don't just run ball hone in the cylinders. A ball home tends to cover up low spots and minor damage, not show them. Take them to machine shop that can properly measure them for taper and out of round. And if they are within spec, let them hone then with the correct equipment and check the fit of the existing pistons or oversize replacements if needed.

Pistons .060 are readily available, but hopefully they are no where close to that already. The closer to the original bore the better.

Paul

 

The A stands for the cylinder hone in std size as original pistons were not the same size so the letters told the fitter what to use on a ink stamped judge the same letter so the parts were matched and no measuring was necessary as it was already done by some one else

 

Can valves be cleaned and lapped? Considering just replacing seals, gaskets, and rings if they're in decent shape. I've had them soaking in gas for about 2 hrs and everything looks good so far no leaks. Mind you this bike didn't smoke. The front exhaust cylinder valve has a bit of carbon build up. If the valves don't pass inspection is it necessary to have new seats cut for new valves? I'm trying to learn all I can about this motor.

 

Put a magnet on the exhaust valves if it sticks buy stainless exhaust and we use the rubber seals

the intake is ok with steel valves if its a money thing you can leave them and what ever you use put rubber seals

ball hone with 120 hone the cylinders and use a set of cast ring set and not the moly set as may not the bores are polished and have no 60 degree cross hatch for the moly to brake in off of - the cast will in 50 miles seat in the cylinders

i like MLS cometic head gaskets - and glue the rocker boxes in James paper with Yama bond 4 - base gaskets we use paper and Yama bond 4 works as well

if not you will not if doing it again maybe even soon

 

Thanks for all that info. I will look at new valves then try to find some rubber seals. Any brand you recommend. I want to keep as much of the motor as stock original as possible. I am measuring the cylinders per manual for "roundness". I sorta want to replace valves anyway but was worried I'd have to send the heads off for new seats. I dont know where to begin that or if its even in the budget at this time. Thanks again!!