Does anyone pull the plug at the bottom of the engine for an oil change?
#31
11-01-2010, 01:18 PM
I removed the pipe plug during my first oil change out of ignorance. Have not had any issues in five years but I never pulled it again.
#32
11-01-2010, 08:58 PM
Road Master
If you like, you can disconnect the return line to the oil tank AFTER you change fluids. Put the return line in a clear container. Fire the bike up and let it idle. It will flush the motor. When clean oil comes out of the return line , shut the bike off, attach line to tank and top off the oil.
#33
11-01-2010, 09:23 PM
After reading all these stories of the case cracking, I'm really glad I didn't put a breaker bar on it to get it loose. Had I cracked the case trying to get that plug out, I would not have had a good day.
#34
11-01-2010, 10:05 PM
Elite HDF Member
While there may be more than 6 ounces of oil left in the motor (i.e., cam chest or rocker boxes ... hydraulic lifters, etc., etc. ...) the best way to 'solve' the problem of mixing good oil with a little left over dirty oil is one of the 'scavenging' systems like those links posted (rogue chopper, j&p cycles, etc.) ....
You may not ruin your crankcase by removing the drain plug, but why risk it ...?
R/
'Chop
#35
11-02-2010, 03:23 AM
Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Arizona
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The OP is refering to the plug in the crankcase, not the oil tank. Most who have pulled the plug in the crankcase have had trouble replacing it leak free without cracking the cases. It is a tapered thread like is used in plumbing pipe. My advice is don't pull that plug unless you are diagnosing a problem such as "sumping".
Also nevermind the snide remarks from people that haven't actually read your question.
Also nevermind the snide remarks from people that haven't actually read your question.
#37
11-02-2010, 01:27 PM
#40
11-03-2010, 09:31 AM
Elite HDF Member
The OP is refering to the plug in the crankcase, not the oil tank. Most who have pulled the plug in the crankcase have had trouble replacing it leak free without cracking the cases. It is a tapered thread like is used in plumbing pipe. My advice is don't pull that plug unless you are diagnosing a problem such as "sumping".
Also nevermind the snide remarks from people that haven't actually read your question.
Also nevermind the snide remarks from people that haven't actually read your question.
Guys, I'm not talking about the drain plug that drains the oil tank, I'm talking about the pipe plug at the bottom of the case.
Ed, thanks, but I'm not worrying about mixing brands, I was thinking that it's not good to mix regular oil with synthetic.
Just trying to figure out now much of the old oil is left in the sump that doesn't get drained when you just drain the tank.
Ed, thanks, but I'm not worrying about mixing brands, I was thinking that it's not good to mix regular oil with synthetic.
Just trying to figure out now much of the old oil is left in the sump that doesn't get drained when you just drain the tank.
Some of you were in essence saying "duh ... remove P/N 210 to drain the oil" ... but, TalldogsFatBob (the OP) was asking if there was any benefit to removing P/N 5 in the second photo ....
I believe the consensus is that there is no benefit to doing so ... and, that it could risk ruining the crankcase ....
If a total oil drain is desired in order to avoid contaminating the fresh oil with waste oil, the better method would be to use a 'scavenger' or similar device that runs the fresh oil through the system and purges any remaining waste oil ... the down side is that it uses an additional quart of oil to purge the motor ....
R/
'Chop