Am I reading that the 70900070 will now work on a 2008 FXDC? I want one!

 

Has any one had a issue with the red security light staying on (solid) while riding? Yesterday while riding it came on and stayed on. Today it turned on about 5 minutes into my ride.

 

These are the instructions for the 2011 model:

1. Turn ignition switch to ACC
2. Press and hold both turn signals until fuel level bars are displayed with "ON/OFF" flashing. Setup will also appear. If "On" is flashing, the fuel level display is enabled.
3. To disable fuel level press and hold both turn signals until "OFF" is flashing.
4. Toggle over to gear indication by pressing the right turn signal where the the six gears will be displayed with "ON/OFF" flashing. If "ON" is flashing the gear indication display is enabled.
5.To disable gear indication press and hold both turn signals untill "OFF" is flashing.
6. Toggle over to brightness menu by pressing the right turn signal where all the bars and "BRIGHT" will be displayed.
7.To dim the backlight press and hold both turn signals until "dim" and half of the bars are displayed.
8. Toggle over to the color menu bu pressing the right turn signal where "ALL" and "COLOR" will be displayed.
9. To change color press and hod both turn signals where the current color number will be displayed.
10. For course adjustment, press (and hold) left turn signal to count down and right turn signal to count up incrementally.
11. For fine adjustment press (and quickly release) left turn signal to count down and right turn signal to count up incrementally.
12 Once desired color is selected press and hold both turn signals until "SAVED" is displayed.
13. To change the color for the other 4 components (dial, speedometer pointer, tach pointer and display) toggle over to the color menu by pressing the right turn signal and follow steps 7 thru 10.
14. Once desired setup and colors are finalized, turn ignition switch to the IGN position and verify settings.

Once again, these are only the instructions for the 2011 version, I do not know the setup for any prior versions

 

If any of you fellows that upgraded speedos have a stocker that will work in a 2003 Night Train that you want to sell, shoot me a PM.
Thanks
JT

 

I purchased and installed the new Speed/Tach combination on my 2010 Fat Bob and went 1 -2 tank fulls before calibration of volume was correct. I have a new issue now though. I have the denim black finish and wand to remove the Chrome fuel gauge and Chrome Gas cap and replace them with Pop-up wrinkle black cap from Drag Specialties. Once I disconnected the original connector to the gauge I lost the indication on the new Speed/ tach. Does anyone know the wiring configuration that I need to use to reconnect so to speak so I get the new gauge working again?

 

Well...I can see that I should have read this forum before I posted my speedo question...But still my info seems a little different than some have posted already.
I purchased a 74746-08 for my 2009 fatboy and have an issue with it. The ABS light is always on for some reason (Even thought the 2009 Fatboy didn't come equipped with the ABS system...Only the Road Kings did)

Now after reading a few of these posts, I think I might be on to the cause.
I also am running the Thundermax system and it seems I'm going to have to contact them to look for a fix (What are my chances)

Now I'm wondering if some of the other functions are not working as well...My 6th gear green light does come on when the tranny is in 6th, but I was unaware that some HD speedos show other gear selection lights as well.
(Wonder if my speedo/tach model was supposed to show other gears?)
Anyone know?

 

I don't believe that model has the ability to show all the gears. I like the looks of that one though. But wow...it's expensive. I'm also pretty sure that ABS issue is just a phone call away. I've read about it on here as well and most people said it was able to be fixed.

 

This is going to require a bit of an explanation because of how Harley has the Low Fuel Light Circuit wired on a stock bike. The new Instrument Cluster is using this circuit to run the new Fuel Gauge that is in the Instrument Cluster.

The wiring at the Fuel Gauge connector is: Orange to Orange, Yellow with a White tracer to Yellow with a White tracer, and Black to Black with a Green tracer.

What the wires do:
The Orange wire is B+ switched from the Ignition Switch and should be battery voltage any time the Ignition Switch is "On."
The Black wire and the Black wire with the Green tracer that it is connected to is Chassis Ground.
The Yellow wire with the White tracer connects the Gauge to the Fuel Level Sending Unit and the Instrument Cluster.

How the Gauge works:
Current flows: 1.) From the Ignition Switch through the Orange wire to the Gauge, 2.) From the Gauge through the Yellow wire with the White tracer to the Fuel Level Sending Unit, 3.) Through the Fuel level Sending Unit to Chassis Ground.
As the level of the fuel in the tank changes a float (that is a part of the Fuel Level Sending Unit) moves an Electrical Contact across Resistor. As the float moves up and down, this moves the Electrical Contact across the Resistor and the Resistance changes.

Because the Fuel Gauge has electrical resistance and the Fuel Level Sending Unit has electrical resistance, and because they are wired in Series with each other; they split the battery voltage between them. Together they always add up to 12 volts (or whatever the charging system voltage is at the time). BUT, as the resistance of the Fuel Level Sending Unit changes the split in the voltage between these two changes.

The stock Instrument cluster is connected to the Yellow wire with the White tracer between the Fuel Gauge and the Fuel Level sending Unit. In this way the Instrument Cluster reads the voltage of the Fuel level Sending Unit. As the split in the voltage between the Fuel Gauge and the Fuel level Sending Unit changes the Instrument Cluster can read the portion of the voltage that is being used by the Fuel level Sending Unit

When you disconnect the Fuel Gauge you remove the Power Source for this circuit (the Orange wire) and so the Instrument Cluster reads 0 volts on the Yellow wire with the White tracer no matter what the Fuel level is.

The trick is to find out what the fixed resistance of the Fuel Gauge is and then go to Radio Shack, buy a fixed resistor (probably less than a dollar) of that value. With the Fuel Gauge disconnected bridge the connection between the Orange wire and the Yellow wire with the White tracer with this resistor. Wrap it all up and tuck it away somewhere where it won't get into any sort of electrical trouble and you're done!

Unfortunately figuring out the fixed resistance value of the Fuel Gauge is probably a bit more complex than just hooking up an ohmmeter to the Gauge. This is because the Fuel Gauge probably behaves differently in a live circuit than it will with just an Ohmmeter attached to it. I could be wrong, but it might be expensive to find out otherwise.

So . . . you will need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) that can read DC Volts and DC Amperes. The cheapest $5 digital volt-ohmmeter at Radio Shack or similar source will be more than good enough: First, with the Ignition "On" read the voltage between the Orange wire and the Yellow wire with the White tracer with all of the wiring connected. Write this number down. Next, disconnect the Yellow wire with the White tracer and attach your Ammeter between the two ends of the Yellow wire with the White tracer. It may actually be easiest to use several jumper wires between the Fuel Gauge Connector so that you can keep the Orange wires connected and keep the Black wire connected to the Black wire with the Green tracer while you connect the Yellow wires with the White tracer using the Ammeter as the third jumper wire. Again turn the Ignition Key "On." and write down the Ammeter reading. Now divide the voltage reading by the ampere reading. The number you get is the value of the resistor you need to buy to use in place of the Fuel gauge.

Simple!

 

Why don't Harley make a kit including the fixed resistor so we can eliminate the crappy gauge and get the new console. I did away with my gauge so I now use the trip meter.

 

Yours is an older speedo / tach combo. No gear display is on this model.