Posting for my buddy....he has an 05 Heritage. He just purchased some used chrome lowers. He has a service manual ordered. We are mildly inclined in the mechanical area.....has anyone done this job by themselves before?
1) on scale of 1-5 (5 difficult) what type of job is this?
2) I did not do a search but does someone have a good DIY outline (pics would be awesome)
3) we are still in the frosty north with lots of snow so thought it would be a good indoor project so any and all help appreciated!
Thanks.

 

This should help some. If your just changing the lowers you dont have to pull the springs.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...stall-pt1.html

 

On a FLSTC (Heritage) or FLSTB (Fat Boy) if he is changing the fork sliders (aka Lowers) he must remove the springs and carefully, they're preloaded.

On FXST (Standard) or FXSTB (Night Train) and others that is not the case.

The service manual is a must have.

I've done this, it is not difficult if you have all the tools, a lift and all day to do it. I would also suggest new fork springs and of course new fork oil at the same time.

It's a great weekend project.

Have fun.

 

Didn't have to remove them when I did mine.

 

i di this on my fxdl. in my opinion, it is easier just to remove the forks and d the change on a bench. its an easy job and once you do it once, the next time will be a breeze. its a fun job. +1 on the springs. read forum for tips and use SE fork oil.

tin

 

I would like to do mine myself too but i would like to have some more documented help. Seems a little complicated.

 

Plenty of info here, google and youtube to do the job. Just doing lowers will be much easier than doing a full job but I can't see not doing it all at once.

You don't need to pull the springs to change out the front on a softail. Just finishing up my chrome front now after a long cold winter. Part that gave me the most concern was getting the 6mm damper rod screw out of the bottom of the lowers. Lot of horror stories here about diyers snapping the screw off. First issue was finding a long 6mm hex. I initially bought a set from Sears but found that the wobble end didn't grip good enough. I then cut off an extra standard tipped t handled 6mm I had and used it with an air impact tool. Worked like a charm.

Next warm day I hope to start putting it all back together. I'm going to use the standard fork oil. I've read the SE oil gives you a firmer front end and since I was happy with the stock front end I see no need to switch.

Like I said, plenty of info around to do the job. Here's one vid you may find helpful for the actual tube breakdown. It's part 1 of 2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpEcb...eature=related

 

Plenty of info here, google and youtube to do the job. Just doing lowers will be much easier than doing a full job but I can't see not doing it all at once.

You don't need to pull the springs to change out the front. Just finishing up my chrome front now after a long cold winter. Part that gave me the most concern was getting the 6mm damper rod screw out of the bottom of the lowers. Lot of horror stories here about diyers snapping the screw off. First issue was finding a long 6mm hex. I initially bought a set from Sears but found that the wobble end didn't grip good enough. I then cut off an extra standard tipped t handled 6mm I had and used it with an air impact tool. Worked like a charm.

Next warm day I hope to start putting it all back together. I'm going to use the standard fork oil. I've read the SE oil gives you a firmer front end and since I was happy with the stock front end I see no need to switch.

Like I said, plenty of info around to do the job. Here's one vid you may find helpful for the actual tube breakdown. It's part 1 of 2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpEcb...eature=related

Oh yeah, scale of 1-5. I'd give a full chrome front like I'm doing a 4. Just the lowers, a 2. Unless you break off the damper screw. Then it's a 5

 

Getting the Service Manual s a good idea. The job is NOT rocket science. More complex than an oil change but less than replacing the camshafts. more time consuming than anything complicated.

While you're at it I'd clean the insides and use fresh fork oil with new seals. At 12,000 miles my original fork oil looked pretty bad.

Some of the recommendations say to use PVC Pipe as a seal installer; but there are different diameter forks, and in my case (2010 Softail Heritage) they don't make PVC of the right size. However, I took the old seals and carefully removed the rubber coating on the outside diameter of the seal with a wire wheel. This makes a bit of a mess but, Insto-presto a perfect seal installer tool. Mates up perfectly with the new seals (Go figure . . . it's the same seal) and has just enough clearance with the rubber coating removed to not get stuck in the bore of the shock as you install the new seals.

 

You can do it! Really pretty easy if you have any mechanical backround, use a service manual and its a breeze. Hardest thing is resetting the new seals. Teflon