Inner primary cover removal
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,762
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From: north jersey
Inner primary cover removal
As this "bruiser" project on my 08 rocker C rolls forward, i am now fighting with something else. I removed the outer primary with no problem.
The compensator nut is on there REALLY GOOD, i yanked on that ****er and it wouldn't budge !!!! tried using a long pipe over my wrench to get good leverage but that thing did not move, i'm afraid of stripping the bolt. Anyone have any suggestions other than using air tools (which I don't have).
AND one more thing. Do you REALLY need to remove the oil tank in order to remove the starter?
According to the manual, you need to remove the oil tank, to gain access to the bolts that hold the starter in place AND THEN you will be able to remove the inner primary cover.
I've done some searches on line and here on the forum. It's confusing cause some writer ups tell you to remove the oil tank to get the starter off and some write ups don't talk about removing the oil tank (or even the starter for that matter).
I found this video on you tube, i don't think this dude removed his oil tank.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoZ4V...ure=plpp_video
The compensator nut is on there REALLY GOOD, i yanked on that ****er and it wouldn't budge !!!! tried using a long pipe over my wrench to get good leverage but that thing did not move, i'm afraid of stripping the bolt. Anyone have any suggestions other than using air tools (which I don't have).
AND one more thing. Do you REALLY need to remove the oil tank in order to remove the starter?
According to the manual, you need to remove the oil tank, to gain access to the bolts that hold the starter in place AND THEN you will be able to remove the inner primary cover.
I've done some searches on line and here on the forum. It's confusing cause some writer ups tell you to remove the oil tank to get the starter off and some write ups don't talk about removing the oil tank (or even the starter for that matter).
I found this video on you tube, i don't think this dude removed his oil tank.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoZ4V...ure=plpp_video
Last edited by Alain; May 18, 2012 at 05:19 PM.
In the video he clearly does not remove the oil tank, and far as he goes with the starter is removing the bendix. Air tools are way to go when it comes to the bolts, especially the one on the clutch.
I know you said you don't have any. Maybe a trip to Harbor Freight? Another option for stuck bolts is heating it with a torch, but that would be the very last option I would think.
I know you said you don't have any. Maybe a trip to Harbor Freight? Another option for stuck bolts is heating it with a torch, but that would be the very last option I would think.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 9
From: Connecticut
When I had mine off I removed the oilbag so I didn't scratch it yes romove the starter bolts and just pullout far enough to get the starter out of the cover. to remove the bolts you need a bar (tool) that hold the pulleys in place and I used a mallet and wrench to get the bolt loose. the comp bolt is a right hand thread the clutch is a left hand thread. hope that helps you
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 12
From: north jersey
Thanks for the replys fellers. I do have that primary lock tool to keep the sprockets from turning while I torque on the compensator bolt and on the clutch bolt.
I'm absolutely baffled by how tight this freaking compensator bolt is!! Im gonna tackle the starter issue today after work to try and see if can get it off without removing the oil tank.
If I HAVE to remove the oil tank I think I'm gonna let the dealership do that part of the job. I have a feeling that's gonna be too much for me.
Anyone else have any suggestions??
I'm absolutely baffled by how tight this freaking compensator bolt is!! Im gonna tackle the starter issue today after work to try and see if can get it off without removing the oil tank.
If I HAVE to remove the oil tank I think I'm gonna let the dealership do that part of the job. I have a feeling that's gonna be too much for me.
Anyone else have any suggestions??
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 483
Likes: 7
From: Harrisburg, NC
A "ball-end" hex socket will help you get the starter bolts w/o removing the oil tank. The comp. nut is usually on there with red loctite as well as the high torque value. Put some heat to it to break up the loctite and a long breaker bar should do it.
K.
K.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
Likes: 7
From: Republic of Texas
You at trying to remove a fastner that was probably torqued at around 200ftlbs with a couple of drops of red Loctite if done by the procedure. Any attempt to remove this that has a spring effect such as a ratchet or breaker bar will most of the time not break it loose. I think HD recommends red Loctite 262 which most of the times does not require heat. Just a good impact wrench. When going back together with it make sure to find the Loctite 262 and not the red Loctite 271 whioch requires heat. The red 262 can be hard to find but is usually carried at the dealership.
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Here is what you do. Take the 4 mounting bolts for the oil tank out. Two are in the rear of the oil tank, two in the battery box. Get a long wobbly extension and long ball end allen wrench socket. Once the bolts are out of the oil tank wiggle it a little so you can gain access to the rear mounting bolt for the starter. That is the one that is difficult to get to.
Once you get the allen in the head of the bolts loosen the bolt. DO NOT TAKE THE REAR STARTER MOUNTING BOLT OUT OF THE HOLE THAT IT IS IN OR IT WILL BE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BACK IN THE HOLE. The front bolt is accesible with the oil tank in place. Someone posted pics of how to do it in a primary thread a while back. I can't remember who. I'll see if I can find the thread for you. No need to let the dealer do this.
As far as the compensator is concerned, I usually use a piece of wood to lock the primary sprockets and a 36" ratchet. BFW. I step on the ratchet and it comes loose. Don't forget the threads are reversed from how they would normally be on the compensator bolt. If your weight is not enough, drink a few more beers until it is.
Once you get the allen in the head of the bolts loosen the bolt. DO NOT TAKE THE REAR STARTER MOUNTING BOLT OUT OF THE HOLE THAT IT IS IN OR IT WILL BE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BACK IN THE HOLE. The front bolt is accesible with the oil tank in place. Someone posted pics of how to do it in a primary thread a while back. I can't remember who. I'll see if I can find the thread for you. No need to let the dealer do this.
As far as the compensator is concerned, I usually use a piece of wood to lock the primary sprockets and a 36" ratchet. BFW. I step on the ratchet and it comes loose. Don't forget the threads are reversed from how they would normally be on the compensator bolt. If your weight is not enough, drink a few more beers until it is.
Last edited by Hogpro; May 18, 2012 at 10:09 AM.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
Likes: 7
From: Republic of Texas
Here is what you do. Take the 4 mounting bolts for the oil tank out. Two are in the rear of the oil tank, two in the battery box. Get a long wobbly extension and long ball end allen wrench socket. Once the bolts are out of the oil tank wiggle it a little so you can gain access to the rear mounting bolt for the starter. That is the one that is difficult to get to.
Once you get the allen in the head of the bolts loosen the bolt. DO NOT TAKE THE REAR STARTER MOUNTING BOLT OUT OF THE HOLE THAT IT IS IN OR IT WILL BE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BACK IN THE HOLE. The front bolt is accesible with the oil tank in place. Someone posted pics of how to do it in a primary thread a while back. I can't remember who. I'll see if I can find the thread for you. No need to let the dealer do this.
As far as the compensator is concerned, I usually use a piece of wood to lock the primary sprockets and a 36" ratchet. BFW. I step on the ratchet and it comes loose. Don't forget the threads are reversed from how they would normally be on the compensator bolt. If your weight is not enough, drink a few more beers until it is.
Once you get the allen in the head of the bolts loosen the bolt. DO NOT TAKE THE REAR STARTER MOUNTING BOLT OUT OF THE HOLE THAT IT IS IN OR IT WILL BE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BACK IN THE HOLE. The front bolt is accesible with the oil tank in place. Someone posted pics of how to do it in a primary thread a while back. I can't remember who. I'll see if I can find the thread for you. No need to let the dealer do this.
As far as the compensator is concerned, I usually use a piece of wood to lock the primary sprockets and a 36" ratchet. BFW. I step on the ratchet and it comes loose. Don't forget the threads are reversed from how they would normally be on the compensator bolt. If your weight is not enough, drink a few more beers until it is.
Last edited by ghostrider69; May 18, 2012 at 02:50 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,740
From: South Carolina
All compensators are standard thread.
To the original poster: In your sig line it says 2010 Camaro...
You might want to tell us what year and model motorcycle you are asking for help on.
To the original poster: In your sig line it says 2010 Camaro...
You might want to tell us what year and model motorcycle you are asking for help on.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 18, 2012 at 02:48 PM.