Ok well I have just ordered the Power Vision PV-1B Tuner and Power Vision AT-100 Auto Tuner from Revzilla using their price match guarantee off the Direct Cycle Parts prices. I only ordered from RevZilla because Direct Cycle Parts is here in CA and I have to pay almost 10% in tax. Anyway got both for $750 (about 220 off retail)


I also just spoke with Hammer Dan and have went ahead with the above described setup. So now all I have to do is take the motor apart and get the heads sent in. I will be starting that this Tuesday and I will try and post some update pics.


The good news is that the turn around time will not be too bad 2-3 weeks he said. I figured this is the time to do it because my paint is getting redone anyway.


I hope I can get it to work.....Wish me luck.

 

Ok so here we go....Beer..check... Forum on the laptop..check...HD Service manual...check...104.1 the Hawk Classic Rock on the Radio...CHECK...




This is my version of the cardboard bolt holder.....Anything worth doing is worth...well being completely overdone :laugh

Somehow my XL Head drawings look more like angry Ninja Turtle Heads!!!








Now time to start the work...I will try to keep up with the pics.

All lifted and strapped down





Removed the RSD air cleaner






Now to start removing the Induction Module



First step was to loosen the Idle Control Cable Assembly by sliding the boot off and cracking the lock nut (much like the clutch cable)





Had to remove the Coil relocation





Manual says to loosen but not remove the Manifold Screws. I used a 1/2" wrench which felt loose but worked. Tried 14mm too big and 13mm too small





Using the same wrench I removed the (right side of the bike) bolts.





Then I used a plastic pry bar to get the flange away from the head. Then just pulled gently and it came out





Next I unplugged all wires and removed the throttle cables. The plug with the little yellow lock was tricky you have to pull out the yellow tab enough to push on the plug release.






I taped up all the openings on the manifold to keep anything from getting to the injectors.

 

Next I remove the Exhaust....well because I overlooked it as the first step in the whole tear down....





I removed the front upper stabilizer link and horn mount. I used a Torx 45 socket for the larger bolts and a T25 t-handle for the horn mount







Took the mount off the front head using a 5/8 wrench





Next I removed the spark plugs using a 5/8 spark plug socket





Then the RSD Rocker box cover come off I used a 3/16 allen for this






Removed the bolts from the Rocker boxes. I was careful to find TDC by having the bike in 5th and turning the rear wheel until I felt compression out of the spark plug hole and using a ziptie in side the hole to tell when the piston is at the top.


I used a 3/16 allen to remove the two bolts on the left side of the Rocker box. I used a 11mm socket to remove the 3 silver bolts in the middle. Then it was a 1/2 socket to remove the 4 outer black bolts. I loosened them in a zig zag pattern in 1/2 turn incriments until they were off the rocker box then took them out.







Next took off the rocker boxes. Threw away the gasket and pulled out the push rods.







I then repeated the process on the rear cylinder.
Head Removal....I used a 1/2 drive ratchet set with a 1/2 socket to take the head bolts out. You have to use only 1/8 turn incriments in the order shown in the pic (HD service manual). They were snug but the 1/2 drive took care of it.





Removed the Heads and push rod tubes




Here they are. Wont see them again for a few weeks whild Hammer Dan works his magic.....

 

The cylinders just pop off. Made sure to put rags in the crank case holes and to use 6" lengths of rubber hose to place over the studs.






I removed the circlip using some long needle nose plyers and just pushed the wrist pin out from the other side. I guess I was lucky...I know a lot of people have trouble getting those out.





Repeated for the rear cylinder.






Gonna try and get more done, but.....I'm running out of beer :shhhh

 

I removed the Push Rod Collar using a 5/16 T-Handle Allen...they were snug but came out easy enough.






Next I removed the Anti Rotation Device using a 3/8 socket. Those had some serious thread lock on them. Got them out though.





Repeated for the Front Cylinder


Pulled the tappets and labeled them individually in their own ziplock with oil. Overkill??? Probably.





Once everything was removed I stuffed all holes with shop towels.





Next I took the bike down off the lift and put a catch pan under it. I used a 3/16 Allen socket to remove all the cam cover bolts. They are different sizes so be sure to keep track...Some use a piece of cardboard...I went over board and used a piece of mdf.


I pulled the cam cover off. Must be lucky again. Mine came right off with very little
force. I was sure to use aluminum foil to catch and funnel the oil to the catch pan.





There is my ugly mug lol...give me a break...been in the garage the whole day.






Here are the cams....Very cool. and there they go. I put them into a ziplock with some oil. Why???? I don't know.






Stuffed the holes with some shop towels now time to move on to the clutch side.....

 

Ok so now to take off the primary / clutch cover. First I removed the RSD Rear Set shifter using a 3/16 allen T-Handle.





Next drained the primary fluid by removing the drain plug with a 5/8 wrench






Next used a cresent wrench to loosen the primary chain tensioner. Just turned the little screw in the center.





Loosened the clutch tension by cracking the clutch cable nuts with a 9/16 and 1/2 wrench and turning to loosen the and remove the cable and lever.






I used a 3/16 T-Handle to remove the bolts for the Derby Cover and Removed the locking nut with spring on the clutch...just pulls off.





Then turned the screw clockwise to remove the clutch cable arm. Took the cable end off of that and removed it.







Used 9/16 wrench to remove the clutch cable from the primary cover.






I used a 3/16th allen socket to remove all the bolts from the primary cover. Then popped off the cover...lucky again I guess. It just came right off.

 

Well here is how she sits right now. Now all I have to do is wait for a few weeks to get the parts back in to put her back together.






All her parts.....





My sweet *** bolt placer thingy ma jigger....





Not bad for a days work. I have been in the garage for about 10 hours today. I know that's slow but I wanted to document as I go.


Stay tuned for the rebuild....Can't wait!!!!!

 

Garage is all cleaned up....Well clean for my shop
anyway...





Now time to pack the heads and get them to Hammer
Dan...


Wrapped them both in foam, shrink wrap, foam, shrink wrap again





Boxed them individually





Boxed them together surrounded by foam.... Lets just hope they make it there.

 

Mr UPS brought me some goodies....Now just need to be patient until I get the heads back.


Dynojet Power Vision and Auto Tune Pro.

 

Wow those O2 sensor are MONSER size - hope you can get 'em in
the pipes without clearance issues... (maybe smaller size is not an option
with the wideband types?)

good luck,

T.