I have a 1998 sportster. I'd like to get rid of the front turn signals and just run the back ones.

Is there a write up that can assist me. If I unplug the fronts the rears just stay on. No blink.

Yes I know i sacrifice safety to run only the rear signals. But thanks for your concern.

 

are you running LEDs on the rear? You might need a load equalizer. I think kuryaken sells one.

I figure I should add that I also don't have front turn signals. I'm running LED rear signals and a third LED tail light. I don't need the load equalizer but I was told that I might have issues with the lights some day and would need it.

 

What if you put a resistor equal to the resistance of the bulb? Might work? Just thinking!

 

Wondering about that. I'm pretty good mechanically. But when it comes to electronics I'm a little foggy.

 

I'm not a fan of stripping the front marker/directional lights off bikes because I like to offer myself every advantage of being seen and to let those ahead of me know my intentions, but it's your *** not mine so here we go.

Yes, you need to add resistors to the light circuit(s) that are equal to the load resistance of the two front incandscent bulbs you are removing from the lighting circuit, to "trick" the circuit into believing the bulbs are in fact there.

Incandescent bulbs have a known operating ohm resistance, and there are numerous sites with ohm resistance calculators, but you need to know at least two values of these devices before you can get your desired information...in this example, with the standard 3057 two element automotive bulb operating at 12 volts, that "12" is the first required element for the ohm calculation, and with a simple search I found the second element required for the ohm calculation, that being of wattage:

3057 bulb wattage:

Element #1 (directional)... draws 26.9 watts
Element #2 (running light)... draws 6.7 watts

Using the following ohm calculator, the ohm resistance (along with amperage draw) value can be calculated:

http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/ohmslaw.htm

Adding "12" (the operating voltage of your bikes electrical system) into the "Voltage" field, and "26.9" into the "Power (Watts)" field, and then pressing "Calculate", you will be rendered the following information:

Amps draw ... 2.24167
Ohms in resistance ... 5.35316

So, with each 3057 bulb at its highest resistance of 5.35316 ohms (during directional use), I think it's safe to say that a 5 ohm resistor could be placed inline of each circuit (one in the "left front" side 12v+ supply power wire, and the other in the "right front" side 12v+ supply power wire), which in combination should create the same resistance as the factory bulbs had they been in place. Each resistor is simply soldered/crimped into place anywhere in each circuit (or as a much better solution for example, you could attach one end of the required resistor directly into the original factory electrical connector at the 12v+ directional wire/circuit, then wrap with insulating or self sealing tape, then cover in wire loom, then coil the wiring up and wire tie it out of the way. This way would appeal to me because the original wire harness lighting connectors are kept in place for use later, because should you one day decide to return the bike to its factory specs (after you get multiple tickets for no front marker/directionals, LOL), all that would be required would be cutting a wire tie or two and removing a resistor to easily allow you to hook all the factory stock lighting back up easy-peasy, instead of bitching about having to cut, strip, and solder a mess of wires back together) and they are not directional, however, care should be taken as to their placement, as they do create heat, enough so to melt plastic so you may want to cover them in some kind of insulating cloth/material before tucking them away. Typical automotive resistors are ceramic like the one pictured below:



Have fun.

=8^)