You are lugging the engine . Just because it sounds like a big twin doesn't mean it is a big twin . I blame the belt drive for making you think this is ok .

 

For best performance and fuel mileage, keep it in the power curve. The bottom of that is 3200-3300 rpm. Why do think performance and fuel mileage is best between 3300 and 4000 rpm? Cuz that's what your motor wants. That's where it's happy. NOT at 2000rpm for God sakes. Anyone that has a clue about these motors knows that.
People over at The Sportster forums tried telling you that years ago Shanneba but apparently you think you know better. I would love to see the inside of your motor. Probably need a chisel to get the carbon off the pistons.
Just an FYI, THE HDI bikes are geared even higher. US 1200s have a 29 tooth front sprocket. HDI 1200s have a 30. I've been thinking about putting a 28 on.


Lugging the engine is an understatement. 2500rpm is lugging it. 2000 is killing it. The lowest i would hit 5th is 65mph and even then I sure wouldnt give it much throttle.
I'll cruise all day long in 4th on 60mph 2 lane and NEVER think about hitting 5th.

 

Splendidly put ! I can't understand why it is not blatantly obvious that this is no way to treat an engine . This guy really needs to turn off the computer and feel the force ! https://youtu.be/cMVLxQ53Vgw I doubt that this link will work but it's worth a go .

 

Shanneba does have point in so far as your owner's manual gives guidance on riding your bike. The manual goes on with, "The listed speeds are recommendations. Individual riding styles can determine gear change road speeds." and elsewhere it talks about not labouring the engine.

The manual is written for all models of a given year and possibly the 883 is quite happy at those speeds.

As mentioned a couple of times now HDI (UK) bikes are geared taller so my earliest pootling gear changes are spread progressively more from gear to gear and higher than the manual suggests.

 

Those speeds aren't even close and it doesn't take much for a normal person to realize this immediately. Try giving it throttle at 2000 rpms. Your bike will shake so bad you'll think it's coming apart. And yes, you ARE damaging the motor. Driving it like this 37,000 miles makes your bike one I wouldnt ever want I can tell ya that.

The owners manual tells you to put in too much oil too. Or carbs set up too lean. And this is the same Moco that had the timing too advanced and too early for how many years. The same MoCo that calls their SE cams performance cams. How 'bout their SE air cleaner. Or the new generation of SE slip ons. Common sense has too prevail. They have their own best interest with the EPA in mind not what's best for your motor

 

Years ago, Doug Coffey ( From Head-Quarters) broke it down thusly:
below 1500- idle
1500-3000-low end (school zones, popo visable)
3000-4500-mid range (normal cruisin)
4500-6000-hi end (fun zone)
6000-up racing

 

Are you running a stock setup? What is the actual spec of your bike?

My bike won't have it because it is geared higher. The manual is written for US bikes and is probably referring toward the 883.

 

Nice big twin video.

 

forget that tach before it causes a lockup
your bike will let you know if you're over revving it
shift by ear
better to run revs a little high, than to run low enough to LUG the engine

 

IMO, the important thing is not to over think it. People fall into that trap with countersteering, unless you are taking corners/curves at a walking pace you are countersteering, you just don't realize it.

Same with shift points, don't over think it. If you can't accelerate smoothly, your in too high a gear. Better to keep it spinning faster as lugging it will literally beat an engine to death. After riding any bike for a while, when to upshift and downshift should come naturally without even having to think about it, you will just know.