I will check the switch,,,, but there is no easy access to the conductors to check this switch. I've had a couple instances of strange electrical incidents just before starter issue. lights on after switch off and remove key. Switch on and lights dim, horn barely made a noise. Key off and on and everything is normal. Replacement instructions say to "splice wires" to replace ignition. ???

 

Check the battery. It should not have hurt it. My cables will not even do that. However, it says in service manual systems are protected. Breaker sure does not know difference.

However, when i say the above, i have never ever check it.

Remove battery, charge it good 24 + hours on maintenance charger and have it load tester. Hook it back up making sure heavy negative wire goes to frame. Heavy positive to starter..

 

A revised switch design may require wiring modifications but I don't think that's your problem. You reversed biased your electrical system and more than likely damaged electronic control modules.

 

This bike always on tender. And when I removed battery it was on tender. But, sometimes battery has may have the volts per the meter but still is 'bad.'

 

Electronic control modules? On a 01 Sportster?

 

How do you mean " No easy access " ? It's a Sportster . There's easy access to everything . I'm fairly sure that the connectors ( conductors ? ) from the ignition switch are to be found under the tank . So are you now suggesting that there were electrical issues before you put the battery in backwards ? To be honest , I think the best course of action might be to trailer the bike to an HD dealership or competent motorcycle repair shop .

 

@midpegs For the ignition switch, there are no bare conductors near the switch that would make it 'easy' to check the switch, Sportster or otherwise. The HD service manual says you splice in a new switch so it's not like you can unplug it and test it.

 

Check voltages at the main breaker, both sides, and the fuses, both sides (one side at a time).

Stop suspecting parts until you troubleshoot (you already wasted money on a starter).

Tell us what the voltage readings are, this is how you determine if the switch is working, and also test the fuses and breaker.

What is the voltage of the battery?

 

You just cut the three wires to the ignition switch, and butt splice in the new switch. Make sure to use heat shrink butt connectors to seal out moisture. They even make them with some solder in the middle to fuse the two wire ends and heat shrink over that. Seems like the best way, but I've not used them. Maybe someone else has and can give us their experience.

John

 

Most 71441-94 switches come with a pigtail...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Igni...sAAOSwtYZcAu-b