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how to Install apes?

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  #11  
Old 03-26-2011, 01:11 PM
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One thing of which to be aware - you can break the break light switch REALLY easy when you remove the handbrake assembly from the bars. The way to prevent this expensive ($59 part) mistake is to take a little piece of cardboard and insert it to fill the gap that is created between the brake lever and housing when you pull on the brake lever, and leave it there, as if the brakes are still activated, and leave it there during the entire removal/reassembly process.

The longest parts of this process are generally adding the wiring extensions, and bleeding the brakes. A cheap hand operated brake bleeder from Harbor Freight (like $12?), makes this a snap!
 
  #12  
Old 03-26-2011, 01:13 PM
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You will have to let us know how it goes...I'm thinking of doing the same as well. I'm a bit anxious
 
  #13  
Old 03-26-2011, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tekdiver500ft
Swapping bars is easy, really. You may need to extend wires, but just do one at a time and you'll be fine.

If you pressure-bleed (rather than gravity-bleed) your brakes, you won't run into any issues.

There's a ton of You-Tube videos on it, but basically you fill the brake lines and reservoir via the bleeder valve in the caliper. This forces all the air up and out as you fill, so the brakes are ready as soon as the fluid is up to the fill line. Close bleeder valve and cap reservoir. Done.
Yeah, that sounds like a better way to do it. Next time I'll try it that way.
 
  #14  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:48 PM
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Default apes installation

Really, I hope rojuwi was kidding about not using instructions or a manual.There is no way you will get your clutch working right again after you replace the clutch cable without instructions or you find/ask someone who has done it before. I assure you that person learned from someone who knew someone who knew someone who read the instructions!
 
  #15  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:55 PM
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Thats so true!
 
  #16  
Old 03-26-2011, 06:55 PM
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For internal wires:
This is what the dimple looks like on the under side of your bars. Drill a hole in the dimple (near the red area) to allow the wires to end up at the switch housing (or at least under the clutch lever/brake perch). If you poke the wires out too far to the end of the dimple (yellow dot), your wires may show depending on your handlebars. Use a sharpie to mark on your handlebars where your switch housing is mounted and go from there.


Go to a sewing store or Giant Box Store and get a seam ripper. Use it to cut your existing wire wrap. The little ball goes under the wrap and you just zip on up the line. The ball prevents any wires from being nicked. It's the safest way I've found to cut wire loom.
The sharp point is broken on mine but it still works:


Look Ma, no wires:



Vacuum, or blow, a piece of string through the bars to pull the wires through the holes.
If you splice, stagger your wire splices (to prevent a large bulge) and use shrink tube. Stagger sorta like this:
-----------------//----------------
--------------//-------------------
-----------//----------------------
--------//-------------------------
 
  #17  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:30 PM
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Found this site a while back, has an awesome reverse bleeder technique!!

http://www.moccsplace.com/images/bra...er/bleeder.htm
 
  #18  
Old 03-26-2011, 09:51 PM
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What's up with that I ran over to autozone and schucks and neither one has a reverse blender
 
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:51 PM
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What's up with that I ran over to autozone and schucks and neither one has a reverse bleeder
 
  #20  
Old 03-27-2011, 12:15 AM
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I just went for it. I had the manual but did not use it till it came time to adjust the cables and the clutch. It took about 7 hours. It was not that bad I just took it slow the internal wiring wasn't to bad.
 
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