Throttle cable adjustment
#1
Throttle cable adjustment
Hi all, I have gone through the repair manual but I didn't have a clue how to adjust the throttle free-play. One quick question, do you adjust the idle cable first or the throttle cable. I have loosened them both prior to grip installation.
No rush, I still have 4 months time before I put my bike back on the road lol. Thanks Alex []
No rush, I still have 4 months time before I put my bike back on the road lol. Thanks Alex []
#3
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
Here is one sure way to tell if you don't have enough free play in the throttle cable.
Sit on the bike, fire it up and let it idle (make sure it's at normal operating temperature), and hold the handle bar so the front wheel is pointing straight ahead.
Then with your hands turn the handle bar all the way to the right until it hits the fork stop.
The idle speed should not change when you do this. If it increases you do not have enough free play in the cable.
I normally adjust the cable just to the point where the idle speed doesn't change when doing the above..
Sit on the bike, fire it up and let it idle (make sure it's at normal operating temperature), and hold the handle bar so the front wheel is pointing straight ahead.
Then with your hands turn the handle bar all the way to the right until it hits the fork stop.
The idle speed should not change when you do this. If it increases you do not have enough free play in the cable.
I normally adjust the cable just to the point where the idle speed doesn't change when doing the above..
#4
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
I adjusted my throttle cable so there was just a small amount of slack, then tightened up the idle cable till the slack was gone. After putting the top switch housing back on I adjusted the play in the throttle till it felt right, and moved smoothly with a little play before the throttle cable begins to be pulled (about 1/16 or 1/32 inch movement). Then I started my bike, played with the cables a bit more once it was warmed up, and then took it around the block to make sure it felt right.
I read somewhere about looking in the carb to see if the plate was opening up all the way, so I tried that, but the light was terrible and I couldn't see anything. I did it by feel and it runs as good as new.
Good Luck!
I read somewhere about looking in the carb to see if the plate was opening up all the way, so I tried that, but the light was terrible and I couldn't see anything. I did it by feel and it runs as good as new.
Good Luck!
#5
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
Thanks all of you for the quick reply. My question is, Which cable should I adjust first? Since I have both cables loose, I have to at least tighten up one before I do the other one, correct? If it doesn't matter which one I adjust first, I am all fine. Thanks again! Alex
#6
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
No, it doesn't really matter which you adjust first. I go for throttle pull first myself. Once I get that where there is minimal free play as I twist the throttle, I do the return cable.
Key indicators you are too tight on throttle cable - surges when you move the bar.
Key indicators you are too tight on return cable - throttle sticks or is sluggish returning to idle.
Key indicators you are too tight on throttle cable - surges when you move the bar.
Key indicators you are too tight on return cable - throttle sticks or is sluggish returning to idle.
#7
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#8
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
One thing everyone has missed here. You want to take up some of the slack, but adjust your pull open first. Lengthen the housing as you continually work the throttle full open. When you hear the "tick" of the throttle stop, you are done. You adjust it just so it barely ticks. If it is hitting hard when you start, you shorten the housing till it doesn't tick any more then lengthen till it just baaaarely ticks. You then adjust the idle cable. This prevents you from having the throttle on the stop but the ability to keep twisting the grip and applying more pull open pressure to the open cable - it makes it so there is no more cable to pull when the stop on the throttle hits. That way you can't overpull on the pull open cable.
#9
RE: Throttle cable adjustment
Great tips, points taken.
ORIGINAL: One_Screamin_Eagle
One thing everyone has missed here. You want to take up some of the slack, but adjust your pull open first. Lengthen the housing as you continually work the throttle full open. When you hear the "tick" of the throttle stop, you are done. You adjust it just so it barely ticks. If it is hitting hard when you start, you shorten the housing till it doesn't tick any more then lengthen till it just baaaarely ticks. You then adjust the idle cable. This prevents you from having the throttle on the stop but the ability to keep twisting the grip and applying more pull open pressure to the open cable - it makes it so there is no more cable to pull when the stop on the throttle hits. That way you can't overpull on the pull open cable.
One thing everyone has missed here. You want to take up some of the slack, but adjust your pull open first. Lengthen the housing as you continually work the throttle full open. When you hear the "tick" of the throttle stop, you are done. You adjust it just so it barely ticks. If it is hitting hard when you start, you shorten the housing till it doesn't tick any more then lengthen till it just baaaarely ticks. You then adjust the idle cable. This prevents you from having the throttle on the stop but the ability to keep twisting the grip and applying more pull open pressure to the open cable - it makes it so there is no more cable to pull when the stop on the throttle hits. That way you can't overpull on the pull open cable.