Breather unit vs Breather Bolts
#11
02-10-2012, 11:20 PM
The NRHS Hurricane Flow is an excellent choice.
I've never seen breather bolts that didn't wind up leaving some oil residue on the side of the bike when it's run hard. On the other hand, a horseshoe breather without a filter trap will leave a drop or two on the garage floor.
The pic below shows a filter trap in the discharge line that I used to eliminate the occasional drops on the floor. But after getting tired of cleaning it, I eliminated it, and just wipe up the occasional drop of oil on the floor.
I've never seen breather bolts that didn't wind up leaving some oil residue on the side of the bike when it's run hard. On the other hand, a horseshoe breather without a filter trap will leave a drop or two on the garage floor.
The pic below shows a filter trap in the discharge line that I used to eliminate the occasional drops on the floor. But after getting tired of cleaning it, I eliminated it, and just wipe up the occasional drop of oil on the floor.
#12
02-10-2012, 11:31 PM
Carb'ed bikes need to warm up before they'll run properly. This is not a bad thing as EVERY motor should be allowed time to warm up before stressing it under load. People with EFI bikes often brag about being able to crank it up and go, but in reality, doing so is nothing but bad practice for the motor.
Crank your bike up first, then while it's warming up, deal with putting on the gloves, jacket, helmet, etc. By the time you're done the bike should be ready to ride.
Drag pipes are exactly that, they designed for use at the drag strip where where the only throttle position is Wide Open. Their performance sucks for street use.
Crank your bike up first, then while it's warming up, deal with putting on the gloves, jacket, helmet, etc. By the time you're done the bike should be ready to ride.
Drag pipes are exactly that, they designed for use at the drag strip where where the only throttle position is Wide Open. Their performance sucks for street use.
#13
02-11-2012, 08:57 AM
Road Captain
#14
02-11-2012, 08:20 PM
I would have gotten this ones if I didn't get the integrated breather bracket. Please let us know how they work out for you.
#15
02-11-2012, 10:06 PM
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These are the ones I use Willis Breather Bolts...
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
#16
02-11-2012, 10:08 PM
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#17
02-11-2012, 10:11 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
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These are the ones I use Willis Breather Bolts...
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
#18
02-11-2012, 10:34 PM
Road Captain
These are the ones I use Willis Breather Bolts...
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index...._detail&p=1957
#19
02-11-2012, 11:21 PM
If you run your breather hoses and filter uphill from your breather bolts you will never have to wipe another drop of oil from that source.
All the breather bolts you guys are posting will slober oil as soon as the filter element saturates.
The only problem with the system I am using is you only have about 1/4 inch to spare between the filter/carb/tank so you have to cut the hose exactly the right length or let it rub.
Note: Wrap the steel braid hose with one snug wrap of narrow masking tape, mark where you are going to cut on the tape and use a die grinder and 1/16" cutoff wheel to cut part way through as you work your way around the hose and leave the masking tape on the hose to keep it from fraying. Leave the hose clamps out of the fittings, much easier to get fittings on and they will never come off or leak once you get the system installed. Hope this helps.
PS Don't forget to clean the cutoff crud out of the hose before install.
Attachment 231576
All the breather bolts you guys are posting will slober oil as soon as the filter element saturates.
The only problem with the system I am using is you only have about 1/4 inch to spare between the filter/carb/tank so you have to cut the hose exactly the right length or let it rub.
Note: Wrap the steel braid hose with one snug wrap of narrow masking tape, mark where you are going to cut on the tape and use a die grinder and 1/16" cutoff wheel to cut part way through as you work your way around the hose and leave the masking tape on the hose to keep it from fraying. Leave the hose clamps out of the fittings, much easier to get fittings on and they will never come off or leak once you get the system installed. Hope this helps.
PS Don't forget to clean the cutoff crud out of the hose before install.
Attachment 231576
Last edited by misput; 02-11-2012 at 11:37 PM.
#20
02-12-2012, 04:07 AM
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As far as cleaning, it really depends on the environment. If it is not dusty, even at 10K miles they will probably still be like new, although that is a good time to check.
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Gear Up & Ride in! DK Custom 4th Annual Open House, June 8th. 🏍️ Click HERE For The Lowdown.
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