Probably referring to the Muller power clutch, it has a longer arm....
Here's a pic;
hth,
T.
I put a Muller on this my sportie this year. Well worth the money for these arthritic hands. Maybe it's me but seem to increase the frictions zone. At least I'm engaging the clutch more smoothly using this. Old part had some shiny spots under the ball bearings. Almost looked more abrupt a ramp on the original.
Not critical, does the job, blah, blah but even so the master used to create the casting mould sure could do with a refresh.
It would be interesting to see if there is an aftermarket replacement of the same size but with better quality finish. Sometimes, H-D drops the ball on quality, especially when they change models. Their Sportster oil drain hose plug style change from 2003 to 2004 changed drastically. Then the drain plug itself changed each year. They finally got it right after a few years.
The new pop-up oil cap/dipstick beginning with the 2004 Sportster was a disaster in quality, fit and durability. The insides eventually cracked. H-D does offer their own in-house aftermarket metal, non-pop-op dipstick with a temperature gauge that is far superior to it: https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...-10-6302305--1
Even though the Sportster has been around since 1957, it has had a lot of growing pains. Watching the Sportster over the years is like watching your kid go through different stages until finally he/she matures into someone you're proud of (hopefully).
Google it, there is a lot of info on its design and the problem associated with it, along with some instructional videos. Sportsterpedia on XLForum has detailed pics and diagrams.
I completely agree with your line if thinking and that's what I'm going to do . Mines at 22,000 miles but I'm not the first owner and I don't know how it's been ridden . I'll probably find nothing wrong with the Spring Plate ( if it actually has one ! ) but it's peace of mind once it's done .
Good point.. Of the 28,000+ miles on mine, I put the last 25,000+ miles on it, So, I assume I am not very hard on the clutch. I'm glad I decided to do it, if only because I gained a little more confidence and knowledge which should come in handy on future repairs/maintenance.
My 2003 only has a little over 6k miles on it, but my newbie riding has been a little rough. Combine that with the age of the bike, and it might be good to change the clutch plates sooner rather than later. Folks here suggested around 10k miles. I'll at least give it another year before I worry about it, but I do want to get it done sooner rather than later, just so that I don't have to worry about it again. And I'll DEFINITELY want to get it done before I start feeling the urge for a Hammer mod.
I hate riding on a potential time bomb, and since my 1200 had close to 30,000 miles when I bought it, that was one of the first things I did to it, get rid of that spring plate mess, and good thing I did, all the rivets were really loose. Must be a quality control issue for those spring plates, seems like a small percentage die an early death for no apparent reason, so hoping yours will get 50,000 miles like some do is like playing clutch Russian roulette. I wouldn't consider it a waste of money to pull that spring plate off a brand new sportster. And put better quality wheel bearings on it while it was on the jack, another Harley Russian roulette game.
What did I do to mine, I sold it today. Got $4100 in case ya wonderin. I had the list price at 4800 hoping for 4400 but a bottom of 4000 before I took it off the for sale.
Drove the truck and trailer 150 miles to pick its bug covered self up, and met the guy on my way home. Bought it while still on my trailer. Which was good because I was wondering how I would bet it off by myself .
He had a nice '96 he is selling for $3000 but thats more than I want to spend for a potential scrambler. He told me to sit on it. Man it felt 100 lbs lighter than mine. Rubber mounts sure got heavy.
I put this on the facebook forum but thought a note on here might be good too in case some don't do facebook.
Decided that I'm never happy with stock headlights, on any bike other than my last one (CTX1300) which had LED lights throughout as standard. So looked around, asked on the facebook forum, and after reading the replies decided I should be able to get a decent LED headlight for around £50.00.
Did a search and found one on Amazon which looked good and fitted the bill.
It came after only two days and I fitted it in about half an hour. Could have been quicker fitting but don't forget it's me doing it!!!
Problems, not really, just a bit fiddly and I don't do fiddly very well!
Getting to the thin bolt at the bottom of the headlight holding collar was not easy with the windshield on. Luckily it's the Quick Release so took a few seconds to get off.
Bolt removed, can't believe I didn't drop and lose the small nut that comes off the end of the bolt but I'd watched a video first and knew I needed to hold my hand underneath to stop it rotating and falling off.
Difficult to get the ring off because of the chrome 'hanging over cover thingy' above the headlight. Twisting the collar around, so the gap is at the top, enabled me to wiggle it free.
Fitting the replacement headlight itself was so easy. The connector will not push all the way in, leaving about 1/8th inch shiny connector pins showing but I'd read that is normal with the replacement. Small bulb 'sidelight' connectors are not required with the LED headlight so just taped those up to prevent them flopping around and possibly shorting.
Replaced the collar, reverse of what I did above, spent some time fiddling with the little nut and bolt as not easy to get lined up but realised there is a channel in the shaped chrome collar for the nut to sort of fit into.
Biggest problem - When I put the connector on I thought I'd better check that it was working before putting it all together. Held the LED Headlight in my hand, reached over and switched on and that was me blinded for a couple of minutes and then a big white spot in my vision for another 10-15 minutes. DOH! What an idiot, I really should have known better!
New LED Headlight arrives Getting the ring off was a slight problem but spun it around so the gap was at the top. It would not come free because of the chrome shoulder above it. These two connectors are not needed on the new headlight so just taped them up. I marked the left and right connects with the wire colour that came off them. Old and New Stock headlight - very focused forward, no side lighting at all. Which is why I got the little spots that I fitted. LED Headlight gives a much broader beam and a whiter light. This is on dipped. I really was impressed with the improvement for only £50.00 This is on main beam, not too obvious against the close by garage door but tried it later with the door open and it projects a long way. The LED lit areas, lit only by the flash of my phone camera. Very efficient and looks pretty cool too.
Last edited by David Rose; 04-29-2020 at 06:34 AM.
04-28-2020, 06:12 AM
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