Yes it does matter. Most likely, they specify a 19" rim because the caliper may rub against the rim if its smaller. Marsikus may have to upgrade to a 19" setup to make it work. Note, the black extender in the picture, between the OEM fork mount, and the caliper. That is necessary to align with the larger rotor. My guess is unless gtjerry's suggestion works, a larger wheel/tire is the answer. His is an 18" rim.

 

Switched out my Mustang Fastback seat for a Mustang Touring seat and it didn't disappoint. Doesn't look as good as the Fastback but it is super comfy as has been my experience with their Touring seats thru the years.

 

Is that the one piece version or did you get the separate passenger pad? How does it feel to your backside? Does it feel like you're "planted" in it? So many seats are square, flat, narrow, etc. and I can't stay put. Thanks.

 

It's the one piece and it keeps you planted but still allows you to move around if so desired. I have one on my 2020 Iron 1200 which is the smaller tank and it works great on that one as well

 

That's a sexy bike ^^^^

 

I bought a 2011 883 Low a a few months ago. It has V&H straight shots on it that are kinda loud. Standard baffles. I looked at reviews about the Quiet baffle, and the Super Q. Some said the Quiet are still too loud, and most said the Super Q are way too quiet. So I bought the Quiet baffles, but made some "lollipops" to tone them down a little. I just got some washers, put a little bend in them. They looked like they blocked too much so I ground them in a oval shape. Welded to a piece of .250" steel rod. Drilled hole in side of baffles and inserted rod and welded it. Then cut off excess rod and ground it smooth. The baffles come with fiberglass wrap and plastic "saran" wrapped around that. You are supposed to leave the saran on, and let it melt off. But I didn't want to do that because it makes the baffles almost impossible to remove if required. I re-wrapped the fiberglass and used a flat plastic automotive door panel removal tool to work the fiberglass back into the pipes. Haven't fired it up yet because I need to replace the small balance tube gaskets which are on order. Don't hate on my welds, the washers were galvanized (not my first choice) and don't weld well. And hold your breath when welding galvanized, some type of harmful gas is formed.

 

Decided to not take no for a answer with the headlight hood mounted on top of the joker machine bracket.the hood,for me,represents the sportster ID.so i did some experimenting by grinding down the underside mounting points on the hood at an angle to close the gap as much as possible.SUCCESS.also took the oe mirrors off,added a round mirror,took the visor off the PV and dropped it to the dash.hopefully the mirror will work out.and its 21 degrees so garage pics will have to suffice.

 

I guess I was napping and missed the original issue. Why did you have to use the Joker
headlight mount to bein with instead of the original Sportster mount ?

thanks,

T.

 

where the mounting point was on the hood is too thin and at the end of a ride a while back while cleaning the bugs off,i noticed the headlight was loose.so i checked the nut and as i was loosening it i seen the hood was broke.when i run into issues like this,i want a permanent fix and i would venture to say,it would break again as i have read reviews on the same thing where they keep breaking even though mine lasted 29k miles.and even though i didnt want to,i purchased the joker bracket to solve my problem.however i didnt really like the look.so i tried just using the hood as a cover after i did some grinding on the underside of it and putting it on.

it looked like *** in the front as there was too much of a gap between the joker bracket and hood.so i just took it off and it didnt dawn on me till last night that if i grind the mounting points down on the hood at an angle,if it would close the gap.thats what i was doing today.grinding, going slow,test fit grind ect.i didnt want to get rid of the hood in the first place.from the recent pic i posted in the show off your sportster part,i then seen how too busy the joker bracket was looking with my handlebar risers and the joker machine handlebar clamp and i didnt like it.

 

I have I think the same hood, chrome bracket in HD speak as standard on my 1200T.

Doing okay since 2017 so you were probably just unlucky that the nut came loose. Under a cover and out of sight so something that gets overlooked when checking all fasteners.