Andrews 57H
#11
12-01-2015, 05:40 PM
Pretty sure its a bad Compression tester
I got the same numbers before and after. It would appear this compresdion tester is stuck at 120. Thats why i pulled it back open. Figured a couple hours to get a new one or just pull rods and covers and go back through it.
To answer the previous question, yes I am running S&S adjustables, Andrews 57H, Fueling OE+ plate and pump. Pressure is 60 psi cold, and 24 warm at idle.
To answer the previous question, yes I am running S&S adjustables, Andrews 57H, Fueling OE+ plate and pump. Pressure is 60 psi cold, and 24 warm at idle.
#12
12-01-2015, 05:56 PM
Yeppers, a tooth was off. It didnt help that the compression tester was an epic POS, so i just pulled the timing cover and gears. Indeed, it was slightly retarded. Mental note. Check multiple times. Ok, so it runs and sounds like it has some potential now. TTS on the way. Oil pressure is really good now with the Fueling setup and most valve train noise is gone. A wee little chatter from the airbox, but thats normal i suppose.
Thank you all. I' ll update after the tune
Thank you all. I' ll update after the tune
#13
12-01-2015, 06:04 PM
#14
12-01-2015, 08:01 PM
Yeppers, a tooth was off. It didnt help that the compression tester was an epic POS, so i just pulled the timing cover and gears. Indeed, it was slightly retarded. Mental note. Check multiple times. Ok, so it runs and sounds like it has some potential now. TTS on the way. Oil pressure is really good now with the Fueling setup and most valve train noise is gone. A wee little chatter from the airbox, but thats normal i suppose.
Thank you all. I' ll update after the tune
Thank you all. I' ll update after the tune
On your rework did you check both the cam-to-cam timing and the crank-to-cam timing, or just the latter? I hope you did both.
#17
12-02-2015, 08:44 PM
Guage Check
Yeah, i checked it. Right back to the store. It was two bad bosch guages in a row that were bad. Time to seek a good American tool company. Any suggestions ?
#18
12-02-2015, 08:51 PM
#19
12-02-2015, 08:53 PM
You called it
proably wouldnt hurt to do a compression check on each cylinder to verify the cam timing is correct im guessing with the 57's you will be about 194 in each cyliner using big boyz calculator with stock heads and gaskets. ive done 2 cam changes and in both cases the compression was ony different by a cpl of lbs in each cyl to each other. seen posts in here where the bike didnt run right and after doing a comp check the numbers where off by 20-30 lbs indicating the cam dots werent lined up dead on , hope its just the tune but wouldnt hurt to verify this. u will have to force open throttle plate a bit with some thing and unplug the acr's to get a correct reading, or u can pull the acr fuse to disable also , if u decide to read with acr working then disabled u will be able to see how well the acr is dumping pressure also. I would leave one plug out just to make it easier to crank over and again in some posts u will see to leave spark plugs plugged in and ground to eliminate change of coil damage. I have never done this and had no problems, but have seen too many posts saying to do this or coil damage could occur, your choice.
#20
12-04-2015, 05:11 PM
Road Master
205TW004.dt0 on se racetuner give this a try dyno guy used this on my bike when i had 255 in bike if u have a newer version i think it may be 205tw005 now of coarse u will have to get 3-4 ve smart tune runs, u may have to take a degree or two out of timing around 2700-2800 if u get pinging. look in the spark knock table try and match up rpm to thottle position where the ion system took any timimg off when it noticed pining condition