Harley’s instructions for their Road King/Softail kit have you cut a wire and crimp a butt splice. I was disappointed and had expected a no cut solution from them. But, it gave me an idea.

I followed their instructions and removed the switch and then removed the black wire and pin from cavity one of the connector. (One that mates to the yellow wire). Figure 1 of the instructions show they just run power to the black wire from an Orange/White and add an in-line fuse. But you have to cut and splice and give them practically $30 for the “kit”

Well I had a couple of unused Orange/Whites inside the headlight and another thread mentioned tapping into one with a spade connector.

I found a male/female molex connector pair that I had around from old PC’s or power supplies. It took a little effort, but I unpinned a wire from one end , then replaced it with the black wire from the switch. Then I plugged my pair into each other and crimped a spade connector onto the end of the wire mated to the black (yellow –coincidently). Now I have a molex connector pair with a spade on one end and the passing light switch (common) on the other end.

Next, plug the spade into the Orange/White connector (might be Fender tip lamp, which an RKC doesn’t use) and then reconnect the molex on the bike and test.

It works great. Passing lights with High-beam and just like all others they will burn with the ignition in the accessory position. They are still controlled by the passing light switch, while the accessory switch has no effect (good). Since about the only time I use the accessory ignition position is to check my gas via the trip odometer, it’s no consequence to me and HD’s kit would have had the same result.

If I ever want to go back to stock, all that has to be done, is un-pin the black from the molex I added and re-pin it back where it came from. 100% pure stock again.

In the pictures, the red & black pair are doing nothing, I just didn’t bother removing them from my Molex. One word of caution. I found another male/female molex pair that looked like a PC fan power cable and one side of the wires were perhaps 18ga or thinner than the ones in the bike. The pair I used had a wire gauge on both side that matched those in the bike.

 

i used that method at first. It worked great but I ended up just pulling hot from the auxiliary switch and hot from the passing lamp and switched them in their respective connectors.

 

I appreciated the info guys.
This issue also bothers me - I want my passing lights to stay on when I flip my brights on too.
Juat to add another route to fix it (which may only be applicable to newer bikes) - I talked about this with a service tech and he said that he can correct the situation just by changing and ECM setting while the bike is connected to the dealer diagnostic computer... End cost is half hour labor charge. Still more expensive than a hard wire fix (as you've described) but I thought I'd toss it out here for those that might not want to make any wiring changes.

 

Plenty of ways to do it.
DIY sticky has lots of detail also, FWIW.

 

That doesn't sound right..,

 

This can be done on the Rushmores thru the ECM.