reading 2 the battery before start was 12.57 during start was 8.60, when the drop in current stopped it was @ 9.87. after a hour of sitting without a charger on it , the battery came back up to 12.47.

 

It drops during starting.

If you don't tell us what it reads when running, dc, I am going to quit wasting my time in this thread. Bring it into the dealer or sell it.

 

Just what Zerk said ... nobody cares what the battery reads hour after or before you try to start ... the reading that dropped to 8.6 is bad and tells me you need a new battery OR its not getting a charge after all the messing around you been doing. What is the voltage reading at the battery when bike is running when you got rpm's at 2000. That will tell if something else is also in need of repair.

 

The volts at the battery drop pretty fast when running @ 2000 rpm and then will finally stop dropping @ the 9.47 while it is running @ 2000 rpm.

 

Clearly you aren't charging the battery. Typically over charge indicates a bad regulator, under charge indicates the stator. Multi Meter at the stator should tell you.

 

My 2002 ElectraGlide voltage regulator went out. No charge voltage going to battery. So battery voltage dropped. Apparently, one can get 55 miles on a good battery with these fuel injected bikes.

I checked three things, battery, regulator and stator. First, I charged the battery on a charger suitable for the AGM batteries, I set it at 10 amps. Battery charged fine, and held over night.

Then I checked the stator, 16-18v AC at idle, at 2000 It was 38.

Nothing comes through the regulator, so I replaced it. All is well with 14.2 volts at anything above idle. So saying that 'under voltage' means stator is not correct.

It's not bleeding edge technology.

 

Correct, overvoltage is always the regulator. Under voltage is often the stator but can be the regulator as well. That's why it's important to check the three things you did. If the OP would do exactly what you did, charge and check the battery, check stator output and check regulator output he'd have found his problem by now and this thread would be done.

 

Harley Davidson Charging System description and testing






Description:
The charging system consists of 3 major parts:

1- An Alternator that generates single phase or three phase alternating current, (AC).
The Alternator has 2 parts:







Rotor:
Attached to the primary side of the crankshaft. The Rotor has a series of permanent magnets and rotates around the Stator at engine speed.

Stator:
Attached to the crank case and has a series of wound wire coils. The Rotor fits over the stationary stator. As the Rotor spins around the Stator the rotating magnetic fields induce Alternating Current in the stationary coils. The Stator’s coils are arraigned so the AC output is either single or three phase.

2- Voltage Regulator, (VR), rectifies the Alternating Current, (AC), from the Stator to Direct Current,(DC), and limits the voltage output to a value close to 14.5 V DC.

3- Battery, a 12V rechargeable storage device used to supply power to the bikes electrical circuits.

As shown in the schematic the charging system includes insulated conductors and connectors carrying current from the stator to the VR through the main fuse to the starter and on to the battery positive. The VR negative lead and the battery negative lead are both connected to Chassis ground.
This system can be checked with a few easy tests using a digital or analog Volt–Ohm Meter.


Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

Thanks for the help, I have determined that it is the regulator, stator is pushing volts within specs battery is good so that leaves the regulator. Again thanks guys

 

Replaced the regulator and is charging at 13.9, again thanks guys for the help and putting up with my ignorance.