OP, I have a 2012 Road Glide. Our motors are identical. Or were.

I started with a TW-222 cam, and after a year decided that my bike still felt anemic, even though it was tuned very well. I then decided to do a FM 107" kit with level B heads, and the TW-222 cams then turned out to be wasted money. They aren't a good choice for that build, as others have already mentioned.

Should you decide to go with the 107" build, there are some things to consider if reliability and longevity are a concern. The torque being exerted against your clutch plates will increase exponentially, therefore you'll need a AIM clutch spring. Factor that into your overall cost. DO NOT cheap out and use a heavy duty clutch spring as you'll see wear in other areas, e.g. clutch cable, clutch level pin/housing, etc. ** Ask me how I KNOW this! **

If you do the job well, and consider the affects of increased torque at the same time, and then ensure that it's tuned well, I don't think that longevity and reliability will ever be problematic for you with the 107" from FM. It's really solid, and they've put together a tried and tested kit that have many extremely please.....including me for nearly 30K miles with no issues othjer than what I've stated. In terms of performance, I'm good. Good for another five years, at which time I'll buy a bigger platform, and use FM again for a 117" or a 120"....or more. Until then though, this kit on the 103" platform will enable you to reliably squeeze everything out of your motor that it's capable of giving you, with reliability being the operative word.

Good luck!

 

The answer to your longevity question is a definite YES. If you like to twist the throttle you will definitely put a lot more "Premature Wear" on all of your drive train components. On my '08 RK I put about 70K miles on my first 107 build prior to spinning a wrist pin bushing and having to start all over again. With the head work, 10.25/1 compression, TW555 cams and an E-Series 2 into 1 that one Dyno'd at 108hp and 125 tq. I went through two SE comps, two clutch packs, a couple of IPBs and a starter ring gear when the ACRs failed causing the motor to kick back. Also, somewhere in the middle of that my tranny took a dump. It had 135K mile on it so I can't totally blame that one on the motor although I suspect it did play a role. On the new 107 build I've cleaned up the heads, added a HPI throttle body, Baker DD7, Baker Comp and Rivera Primo Complete Clutch Basket w/ Pro-Clutch and TPP. We will see how they hold up. All is good so far.

Now, I just picked up a 2016 RK with only 2,250 miles extremely cheap. I'm setting this one up for long trips and longevity. I'm not touching the top end. Stock heads, stock jugs, TW222 cam, E-series 2 into 1, hi flow air cleaner and a PV. I'll still be making about 100hp and a bit over 110tq. This should be more than enough to keep me happy.
Hopefully I will not have to worry about my comp or clutch for some time. If I want to go fast I can jump on the '08.

As far as your build goes. IMO if you aren't going to spend the money on the Dyno and going to use a canned tune from FM I would stick with the Woods cams. FM would have an exact match for your set up and you can see the Dyno charts on their site. Auto tune can do the rest.

 

Guy I go to church with just got his street glide 107 kit done by T-man performance in NC just last week. His crank run out measured .004 with 50K miles on the clock. He beats on his bike all the time. Im gonna see how his crank holds out for the near future.


Id love to have the 107 big bore kit done to mine, but I went with TW-222 cams and called it a day. Im a firm believer that the stock crank is the weak link. Ill save up the money to pull the motor and put in a S&S crank when I decide to do the big bore.

 

Like others have mentioned it really depends on your riding style. Also do you have a need for speed and power, or at least having it available? Can you live your life not knowing what could have been, ha?

I guess a can't. I currently have a 96" w/ 222's. It's a huge improvement over stock and I've recently switched to a 2/1 exhaust. However I wish I would have done the whole 107" kit and have been done with it.

If your concerned about reliability keep the heads stock and compression at 10.25:1

 

I had a SE 103 build in my 07 RKC and I love it, and you already have the bore so get some SE pistons that will give you 10.5:1 compression and add SE259e cams and hang on. I had my build done In 08 and Ive got 65000 miles and it still screams torque and horsepower.

 

Yea but If you aint beating on it the 110 kits are great not gonna torture the crank
Most of us are not drag racing stop lights everyday
occasional lose of mind for a moment from time to time

Us Heavys are gonna be very happy with a FM 107 or 110
I aint doing wheeelies

I wish i was


Please donate to Florida Hurricane Victims if you can in any way
It is bad
I have friends there in many cities and it not gonna be good anytime soon
THANK YOU

 

259 cam's are one of the best that HD ever put out, the other is the SE204's. The 259 cam's scream with the right compression. I think that's the problem with a lot of builds with the 259's, they don't set there comp. where it needs to be.

 

An Andrews 48 and a good tune/tuner may do it.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I think for now I will just stick with a good set of cams and then call it a day.

 

I had a lifter failure at 5500 miles on my 15 RGS. Sent a needle bearing through my oil pump, got lucky and only needed to replace the entire cam chest. Upgraded everything to keep from having same issue. It was only $2300. Replace those lifters!

Here is what is left of oil pump gears. Outer ring was cracked. Needle bearings don't compress well.