All dealers are not the same. The one I use does very good work. I do most of my own work if needed I would them.

 

Here is the detail from write up from the scheduler...as of today the service mgr is no longer the service mgr:

Regarding your bike, the compression tests gave these numbers: Front cylinder initial compression 70PSI ,final 155 PSI. The rear cylinder compression test results were initial 60PSI ,final 130 PSI. The tech added oil as suggested in the manual.After doing this the front cylinder initial was 70 PSI, final 170 PSI. The rear cylinder initial is 70 PSI, final 140 PSI. The compression itself is not bad its just the differnce in compression that is bad. As stated in the manual "compression low on first stroke, tends to build up on following strokes but does not reach normal. Improves considerably when oil is added to cylinder". Concerning the leakdown test, the tech found that both cyliners were leaking through the exhaust and intake. the leakdown for the front cylinder slowly climbed to 74 PSI and in the rear cylinder the number was at 76 PSI and slowly dropped to 68 PSI. Leakage greater than 10% is the spec for that we looking at. We are recommending the rings for the pistons right now, that is one thing we are sure about. Other engine work can be put off for a while. If we were to do the piston rings, and the pistons and cylinders themselves are okay we would not work on the head unless the tech found an issue while doing the inspection. We are not including the port/polish of the heads in the estimate at this moment, that is something we would have to send out to another shop being that we do not do that here.

Thoughts on this diagnosis? I am contemplating pushing the pause button on this work and speaking with the 2 indie shops I have worked with.

 

noticed you added the 259E cams. If I recall correctly don't those need more compression,bigger springs and higher lift? maybe not so apparently?

good luck, going back to watching the snow fall

 

1) What was the original complaint?
2) I would never just re-ring it. If you want it stock go .005 or .010" over.
3) I would ride the bike and think this through unless there is some major engine complaint.
4) I would not let someone install just rings and send the heads out for port and polish - you'll be in that engine more than once if you don't plan this correctly.

 

burning 1-2 qts oil between services, no drips on the floor. Primary seal replaced 10K ago...investigation with the test was why am I still burning oil.

THx for the input...I am think about taking the bike to my indie who they likely ship the p/p out to.

Dyno Steve in Olympia did the work and recommended the 259e based on the description of how I ride preferring a higher RPM and that this was a direct drop in (with new lifters) that didn't require a bunch of extra work. I went with his guidance.

 

Also, their leak down results do not make any sense. Leak down is reported as a percentage as it is taken off of a differential between gauges - not a PSI.

 

Just reading this, if you were burning oil past your rings you would have blue tinted exhaust leaving the mufflers, was that happening when you rode? When the bike was at operating temp?

I'm curious what your Indy's say, since this is starting from chasing an oil leak/1-2 qt every 5K. Were your breather tubes re routed or are they still going into the throttle body? How does the air cleaner and throttle body look? Any excessive oil?

If you like the bike the way it is, then just find what the problem is and fix. If you want more HP/TQ, then like others have said maybe now is the time to put a package together and go for it, up to you.

Good luck! Ride safe!

 

I am reading your numbers and have done numerous low budget in frame and out of frame refresh (top side) and overhauls on cars.
(Just went thru the whole drive train on the Jeep you see here that had 300k on it.)
Is the bike a hobby? Or a necessity you must depend on.
The ring compression unless it really affect idle is no big deal in my opinion.

Did the tester have the throttle body butterfly opened? If not, you will get that low reading building up.
I have yet to see a leak down in a Harley service manual. Just on gage. 10% is what you see on small quality 4 cylinders with cylinders that look like hydraulic cylinders with low tension rings that lap and seal on compression. (Just saw that few months ago on a turbo hoodie )
Jeep was at 50% and low on power. Compression was 100 with lot of oil getting by and fouled the exhaust valves. Sounded like a sea shell in the exhaust pipe.

Not sure why you worry about the oil consumption. Bike will go another 50k as is as long as idle is acceptable and power is OK.

Put new regular Harley plugs in it ever 10k and change engine and primary oils ever 5-10k, transmission oil at 20 and wear it out.

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Thought this might be of some help/assistance

 

In my younger days, I rebuilt many motorcycles and small block chevy's. There are so many variables in your question. Have you owned the bike since new? Do you ride hard? Where do you live and what are the temps in the spring and summer when most riding is done? Do you do your own maintenance, change oil and filters regularly? It looks like you did cams, are their other mods, tuner, air filter, breather bypass? All of these in conjunction may spell out the need for rings at 67,000 miles. You could also have bad valve seals. Anyway once you open the top end at this mileage I would check everything out and replace whatever is on the lower half of spec. And as others have suggested it is certainly the time for upgrades if that is what you want.