I have a "new to me" 2013 SG non-ABS and the cruise isn't working.
The faring cap cruise control switch lights up just fine but the orange light in the tach does not come on.
Is this normal for 2013's?
The cruise on my 2014 Ultra would light orange at start up when engaged.

I read on here about the brake switches being a problem but my brake lights are working like they should with no flicker.
I started to follow the diagnostic procedures in the electrical manual but it fails at the first step when it enters Diagnostic Mode.Looking for any ideas before I start to chase wires to the ECM or take it to the shop.

NOTE: I do have an issue with over thinking a problem so I’m coming here to see what others have to say

 

I have a 2007 and don't know if this would apply to your problem but years ago I had intermittent problems with the CC engaging. I ended up switching out my hand grips which meant removing the brake lever assy. After cleaning and re-assembling the unit I've not had another single issue with the CC. It engages solidly every time I hit the switch.

 

Thanks for the response.
The previous owner did change the grips so I'll check around the front brake lever and right side housing, beats chasing wires right now.

 

I have a 2103 Limited and recently had intermittent cruise problems and it eventually quit altogether. It was the rear brake light switch. It's happened three times between my two bikes. The switches are both cheap in build and price. I know you said you checked them but have someone watch from behind and make sure your brake lights are going on and off as you actuate the brake pedal. My lights were stuck on after the first press.

I'm sorry but I don't remember if the orange light on the dash was on or off at the time.

Good luck troubleshooting.

 

Responses like this are what makes a forum so awesome. Good on ya.

 

Slightly vibrate hand brake lever while checking for brake light activation...do not squeeze lever...vibrate lever or bang hand grip with rubber hammer.
Reason: trying to locate a false brake light activation.
Review wiring under rear fender...especially if rear has lower shocks or lowering blocks.
Reason: looking for possible tire rub against wire loom under rear fender causing false contact.

 

when you turn on your cruise control, the indicator on your gauge should turn orange. when the cruise control is engaged, it'll show green. in addition, the toggle switch on the dash should have a light on it as well. if it isn't even lighting up orange, then i would think that your problem is not with the brake light switches.

 

I have had many problems in the past with my cruise on my 2009 and understand the system well and may be able to help. Your orange cruise light in the tach should be on at all times when the ignition switch is on and the rocker switch is switched on. If it is off you have lost power somewhere before it even gets to the orange light or the handlebar control. If the orange light was on but it wouldn't engage (turn green) or wouldn't stay engaged then you could worry about the brake light switches, clutch switch or the roll off of the throttle. But it could still be a short in the wire harness. The fact that the rocker switch light is on means the fuse is good. So you will need to start troubleshooting the wiring harnesses. You will need a manual to do this.
You can begin to troubleshoot by understanding the wiring path because there is over six feet of wire and four wiring harness connections just to get the power to that orange light. Power flows from the fuse through the wire to the rocker switch. If it lights up you have power to that point. Then the power runs back to the ECM. Then other wires send the signal from the ECM to the orange light, hand control switches and to the throttle body. If there is a break anywhere in the wire or if a harness connection is corroded you will not have power to the orange light.
On my bike the orange light would come on but would flicker. If I engaged the cruise it would turn green but wouldn't stay on. I spent a long time chasing the short and then decided to bypass most of the harness to remove problem areas. I have never understood the reason for the rocker switch to exist so I bypassed it. I ran a 12" wire directly from the fuse to the ECM bypassing all of that extra mess. I haven't had a problem since. If you get to the point where that sounds like a solution to you I will explain what wires to connect.

 

Sounds like the fairing rocker switch is bad.
Had a similar issue with the speaker switch, would light up but no sound. Replaced switch and all is good.

If it is a bad rocker switch, I would get the harness with all switches on it, or just bypass as another poster said.

 

Follow CNCMike's advice. This is exactly how this works. I was going to say some of this, but this is a much better explanation than I could have given.