There has been discussion about replacing lifters since you don't have replaceable tappet blocks on tCs.

For me, I like to mimize labor and do whatever I can when open. So I've done mine twice on 90k

Other bike 70k I haven't, because never had open.

Get your gaskets from Cometic. If you are doing the work the non cutting of push rods is the way to go.

Cometic has different tq sequence than manual for head bolts, and they don't oring that factpory does on one of the cover gaskets. I wouldn't do this without a manual.

I believe the OP is just removing the top rocker cover to expose the rocker arms and remove the push rods from the top....

I prefer Cometic MLS head gaskets, but the HD rocker cover gaskets are actually quite good...

So are the Cyco SIL (silicone bead) rocker cover gaskets.. I have used both on Twin Cam bikes and have reused the same gaskets 3 times with no leaks...

Since HD stopped allowing me to buy parts online at a discount, I have started buying Cyco gaskets online to stock up. I have found the Cyco gaskets to be very good, and cheaper than HD gaskets from a dealer parts counter... the Cyco breather assembly gaskets look identical to the gaskets that come in new HD breather assembly kits...

But I still use Cometic MLS for all my head gaskets...

Ok,
Thank you all very much for the comments and support!
I really appreciate everything which I can get from more experienced Bikers.
I hope you will support me to go through this task.
I have the first "bump" already.
I have taken off the exhaust pipes.
but I didn't removed the gas tank first...then I have educated myself more in regards the tank removal, and on EFI models they mentioned in manual about the "depressurizing" procedure.
I have the cross over section, and I know how to drain the fuel from the tank.
but is it really necessary to depressurize? I saw on some movies that it is only to avoid the spilling of some fuel during disconnection of the fuel line from the tank.
my idea is to wrap it around during taking off, and there shall be no mess.
Please let me know and we will take it from there further ;)
thank you in advance.

You must run roller chains on both inner and outer if you use hydraulic tensioners. The SE kit didn't change the cams. So only the outer tensioner got the roller chain since the kit came with a sprocket for that one.

The other cam's sprocket is part of the cam.

The only reason I said to stick with just shoes was economy..

Here is what happens with a link chain on a hydraulic tensioner. With a roller chain, it grooves in and rolls, and wear stops. It's not the pressure, it's the chain. That last picture has 90K on it.

Just a suggestion. Just an opinion.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...f44aa340cf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...419d502117.jpg

For the inner cam bearings which one you guys recommend?
In the shop where I am going to buy gaskets and all the rest they have Fueling bearings avaliable.
https://malyhd.pl/rozrzad-nosek/7664...du-cs-184.html
but the tool to take them off was designed for Koyo B148
from this thread
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/twin-...ring-tool.html
but logically if the cam shafts need to fit both type of bearings, so the tool shall work for both Koyo and Fuel.
thing is , which one are more reliable.
thanks

Makes me glad I went with the 07 and up cam plate and conversion cams.
Thanks for the pictures.

Are you wondering about the best tool or best inner cam bearing?

The Koyo B148 inner cam bearings are the same size as the INA Brand OEM 148 inner cam bearings... just a better design...

If someone is selling a B148 replacement bearing for a twin cam, it is most likely a captive roller bearing (Koyo) rather than an OEM style caged bearing (INA Brand)... Just make sure you are getting a captive roller bearing sized for your installation, B148.

There are tools set up for B148 inner cam bearings (88" engines), tools set up for B168 inner cam bearings (96"+ engines), and some will sell a tool that has different collets and bearing drivers with one plate, so it can handle both size bearings...

Jim's Tools makes quality tools... and you pay for that. There are some cheaper tools that should work fine for a garage mechanic who may only do this bearing change a couple times...

I bought the Heartland (same as MBS Manufacturing) Inner cam bearing remover/installer. I liked the window at the top of the plate so I could see what is going on behind the plate. I have used it 4 times with no issues..

thanks for the replay
I asked about the inner bearings.
if Fueling company is ok

I will look for Koyo B-148 with no cage design to be sure I got the right one