I want to start pulling a trailer with my EGC what options do I have for wiring it. I do not want to spend 100.00 on the kit from bushtec or the likes of the high dollar brands. I do not mind having to cut wires I just dont want to butcher it . Thanks for the help MDodson

 

You can get an isolator (protects your bike's electronics by making the trailer lights independent of the bike's electrical system) on ebay or amazon.com for $40 or so. I spliced mine to the taillight harness under the seat and put the isolator unit under my left side cover. When I hook up my trailer I just plug one end of the trailer wiring harness into the isolator and ziptie the wires behind my saddlebag and down to the hitch.

 

I found this one here and it has no relays. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1. It looks like it will help on the splicing part. What if I use leds for the lights on the trailer? Will that help on the load the lights will put on the systems.

 

All that does is plug into your wiring harness and give you a piece of wire to connect to. You can get 3 of those little blue plastic wire splicers that you squeeze on with pliers and accomplish the same thing. You're still connecting directly to your bike's electric system which includes your EFI and other things I wouldn't want to burn out if my trailer wiring screwed up. Some folks have good results without using an isolator but I use one for the piece of mind, knowing that no matter what happens with my trailer wiring won't have any effect on my bike's electronics.

As far as LED's go, I don't have a clue. I use low-tech bulbs.

 

I have pulled trailers for many years with a bike. I learned the hard way to use an isolator. Was on trip 10 years ago and the trailer lights shorted. Created all sorts of problems. I lost over a day of my trip fixing the mess. That was on a 1995 Bike. As soon as I got home I put an isolator on. I wouldn't think about pulling one without an isolator with all of the electronics on bikes now. Spend a little now and save yourself some grief later on. You can do an internet search and find several companies that make them. I like the solid state ones. My last bike had the relays, they are mechanical and could fail. I think Kuryakyn even has one. You can buy a splitter to keep from splicing any wires, but I would use an isolator.

 

Obviously, the voice(s) of experience are tellin' ya to use an isolator - an' I agree. To the feller suggesting that ya use the line taps.....a POX on ya! Line taps WILL cause problems on the wiring - maybe not today, but they WILL at some point, because the junction WILL corrode, overheat an' fail - sometimes with a short in the harness. Do yerself a favor an' take the time ta do it RIGHT- with solder an' tape.

 

Hey!!! Tight ***. if you can afford a Bushtec trailer, you Damn sure got another $100.00 bucks..........
Do yourself a favor and do it right, now is not the time to take the cheap route.

 

uh.....ah guess ya read sumthin' into hiz message that ah didn't see - he asked 'bout the Bushtec harness - he did NOT say he had a Bushtec trailer....

 

Your right, I did read that into what he wrote. OK let's try this one, youown a Harley Davidson motorcycle youTight ***, youshould be able toafford a $100.00 harness.

I don't think I would mention any trailer Mfg when looking for a Wire Harness if I did not own one of their products.[:-]

 

I purchased a hoppy isolator and a break out module from J&P cycle that plugs inbetween the main harness and the rear harness. I wired the hoppy up to the brake out deal. I didn't want to cut into the main harness or the rear one unless it was absolutly necessary. With the module it is possible to remove the entire harness when not pulling.

As I remember the hoppy isolator was about 20 and the module was 30 or 40.

I have been pulling a trailer off and on forfour years nowwith this wiring setup and it has worked flawlessly.
You might want to check this place out. It is a site specifically for motor cycle towing.
http://login.prospero.com/dir-login/...towing%2Fstart