Seems 8k on the rear is about average, so you're in the ballpark. I usually get 16 - 20k on the front.

I like the Dunlop K498 series better than the 401/402 tires. I get a bit better mileage, and don't notice any loss of traction. My last front tire was an Avon and I wasn't too thrilled with how it handled or wore. I'd thought about some Metzeler's, but after talking to folks around here I changed my mind. Everyone said they liked the traction, but didn't get good mileage out of them compared to Dunlop. I ride fairly conservatively and look more for mileage.

 

Markcuda-
Sorry I didn't answer your question about the "looks". I guess I just like ME880 and Venum tread pattern. But after reading everyones replies...I prefer not to have any less tracktion as I tend to polish my footpegs occasionaly. My wife calls them my early warning devices to "slow it down a little" in the twisties. I would probaly enjoy a sport cruiser, but I am not willing to give up comfort on high mileage runs to Fairbanks and back on the weekends. Do you stay with the 36psi in the front and 40psi in the back when traveling 2 up? How much air do you put in the rear shocks. Been running about 8psi. Thanks

 

Hi Jim, I run 30 pounds in the front and 40/42 in the rear at all times.
The wife rides with me 80 percent of the time.
When I had my air shocks(I put Progressive 440s on it) I ran 30 pounds of air in the shocks[sm=boohoo.gif] and they still would bottom out big time[sm=rant.gif]
So, I got pissed and spent 400 bucks on rear shocks. I just wish I would of did it sooner[8D]

 

[:-]Wow, just noticed the mileage you have on your Ultra. Heck, I am just barely covering ground by comparison. Thats some serious road time. Ya ever get up my way give me a shout. Unfotunately my line of work is the busiest in the summer. Still I try to get some serious seat time.

Iam curious about your 440 Progressive shocks. Can you tell me specifically how they changed your ride. Any other suggested up grade for the touring bike.

Thanks

 

Jim, I could tell you better over the phone. If you ever want to call me, here is my phone number
(217)622-6920.

I could also go on forever

 

Speaking of tires, I am almost (i hope i hope) ready to pick up my first Road King, in fact, my first H-D! In the past, I have always taken my tire off of my bike to have a tire installed - how easy is that to do on a Road King - front and/or rear?

 

Roadking52,

Here is what is acceptable for tire wear. Look on the sidewall of the tire and you will see a small arrow that looks like a little triangle. Go to the tread where this arrow is pointing, and you will find a small bump down inside the tread. On a new tire it is almost impossible to see. As the tread wears it will become more prominent. When the tread wears down where the tread is level with this bump, it is time for a new tire. This bump is 2/32" high, so that is how much tread depth you will have left. There are three of four of these little indicators in the tread of the tire in different places.

If you have 7,500 miles on your rear tire, these indicators should be pretty easy to see, but the tread is probably not level with them yet.

Hope this helps, and if you can't find the bumps, let me know and I'll try to get a picture. My wife has 8,800 miles on her rear tire, and I can see the bump pretty well. Don't know how it will photograph though.

Regards,

Bill

 

Ted,

Wheels are not hard to take off and put on. Just get a shop manual, and all will be explained, including torque specs, alignment, and belt tension. You will need a torque wrench, and a belt tension gauge. The new bikes have sealed bearings, so there is no need for dial indicators, shims, or a wheel bearing packing tool.

Regards,

Bill

 

Thanks, Bill. I'll check it out.

 

Thanks for the info ... I spoke to the dealer yesterday they said I should replace when they get to 1/32. I picked up a depth gauge and I still have between 5/32 and 6/32.