Changing Oil In All 3 Holes, How Difficult Is It?
#11
I'll have to try the 2 liter bottle. Thanks.
#12
Changing all the fluids is very easy. Read the manual a few times to understand where the drain bolts are and how much you need to refill.
You don't even need a jack stand or lift. Just keep it on its kickstand. Get a shallow pan but one large enough to hold at least 4-5 quarts. You literally unscrew a couple bolts and let the oil drain.
Get a good filter end cap wrench. You can get them at any auto parts store for about $8. A 3/8 inch socket will fit into the end. You only need this to loosen the filter. The new one will only need to be hand tight.
The chaincase is easy as well. Drain the oil. Get a torx bit, remove all five fasteners and remove the primary derby cover. Add 32-40 oz. of synthetic or standard 20-50W oil.
Don't worry about changing the O rings every time you change the oil. It's NOT necessary. I don't care what anyone says. I change out the O rings every 10,000 miles. They're very pliable and seal well. I know it says to change them every time but I have NEVER had a leak at the drain bolt on any Harley from not replacing the O ring. This includes the derby cover gasket. If it makes you feel better, change them every 5000 miles.
But hey, they're cheap and if you change them every time, be my guest.
The whole job will take you maybe an hour the first time. 1/2 hour from then on.
I use an empty kitty litter box to dump all the used oil into. It will hold 4-5 changes until it needs taken to the auto parts store to dump. It's reusable as well.
Personally, I use Mobil 1 15W-50 in the crankcase and primary. I use Mobil 1 85-90 gear oil in the transmission. Used these for many years and have never had a problem.
There's many other quality oils out there. I recommend synthetic as its properties are well known to keep the engine lubricated better, the additives lasting longer and keep the engine cooler.
You can use synthetic right from the first change at 1000 miles. Don't let anyone tell you differently. "Seating the rings" and making leaky gaskets are urban myth and patently false. Synthetic is factory fill on numerous cars and motorcycles. It is well known now that tighter engine tolerances and changes in metallurgy have eliminated the "break in" period required to use synthetics.
It helps you get to know your bike and you know the job is done well.
You don't even need a jack stand or lift. Just keep it on its kickstand. Get a shallow pan but one large enough to hold at least 4-5 quarts. You literally unscrew a couple bolts and let the oil drain.
Get a good filter end cap wrench. You can get them at any auto parts store for about $8. A 3/8 inch socket will fit into the end. You only need this to loosen the filter. The new one will only need to be hand tight.
The chaincase is easy as well. Drain the oil. Get a torx bit, remove all five fasteners and remove the primary derby cover. Add 32-40 oz. of synthetic or standard 20-50W oil.
Don't worry about changing the O rings every time you change the oil. It's NOT necessary. I don't care what anyone says. I change out the O rings every 10,000 miles. They're very pliable and seal well. I know it says to change them every time but I have NEVER had a leak at the drain bolt on any Harley from not replacing the O ring. This includes the derby cover gasket. If it makes you feel better, change them every 5000 miles.
But hey, they're cheap and if you change them every time, be my guest.
The whole job will take you maybe an hour the first time. 1/2 hour from then on.
I use an empty kitty litter box to dump all the used oil into. It will hold 4-5 changes until it needs taken to the auto parts store to dump. It's reusable as well.
Personally, I use Mobil 1 15W-50 in the crankcase and primary. I use Mobil 1 85-90 gear oil in the transmission. Used these for many years and have never had a problem.
There's many other quality oils out there. I recommend synthetic as its properties are well known to keep the engine lubricated better, the additives lasting longer and keep the engine cooler.
You can use synthetic right from the first change at 1000 miles. Don't let anyone tell you differently. "Seating the rings" and making leaky gaskets are urban myth and patently false. Synthetic is factory fill on numerous cars and motorcycles. It is well known now that tighter engine tolerances and changes in metallurgy have eliminated the "break in" period required to use synthetics.
It helps you get to know your bike and you know the job is done well.
#13
Dont spray brake cleaner on the front motor mount ruber, it will break the rubber down real fast.
But spraying it once while changing the oil is not going to hurt the rubber mount.
Last edited by AZ Rider; 03-21-2009 at 01:40 AM.
#14
#15
#16
go online and buy a 250 in/lbs torque wrench get a few o-rings from the dealer and some mobil-1 from auto zone. If you can't do the rest, then you may need help shifting and steering at the same time. Also, don't forget to lube your cables and other points where the controls pivot. They may not say to do this, but if you ride in the rain at all you should make sure they don't rust.
Last edited by gary_montague; 03-21-2009 at 10:33 AM.
#17
#18
Mobil1 15-50 Synthetic $26.00 5qt. jug from Wal-Mart. Change every 5K miles.
Mobil1 75-90 Synthetic Tranny Oil $8.00 any auto parts store. Change once a season.
Castrol GTX 10-40 Dino $2.50qt for Primary from Wal-Mart. Using a synthetic is a waste of money. Change once a season.
HD Super Premium Oil Filters. I buy 6 at a time from either Chicago HD or Zanottis online @ 20% off. Your filter is the weakest link in your lubrication cycle, why scrimp on it? It has the best filtering rating of any filter on the market. Change every 2500 miles.
Mobil1 75-90 Synthetic Tranny Oil $8.00 any auto parts store. Change once a season.
Castrol GTX 10-40 Dino $2.50qt for Primary from Wal-Mart. Using a synthetic is a waste of money. Change once a season.
HD Super Premium Oil Filters. I buy 6 at a time from either Chicago HD or Zanottis online @ 20% off. Your filter is the weakest link in your lubrication cycle, why scrimp on it? It has the best filtering rating of any filter on the market. Change every 2500 miles.
#19