headlight bulb replacement
#21
#22
If visibility is a concern, and it should be, consider different color lights that make you more visible due to the color variation. I've gone to yellow fog lamp bulbs (50 watt) in my passing lamps and a high intensity white light in my headlamp on the Road King. I also replaced the the stock reflector with a Hella E-coded one, makes a great difference at night and during the day. The yellow bulbs standout against the white headlamp and throw a good amount of light at night too.
#24
#25
That was my plan. I e-mailed Candlepower Inc. twice in the last three weeks with some product info questions and have yet to hear back from them.
#26
I have an 02 FatBoy. I am using an CANDLEPOWER 100/80 H4 bulb (part# 4840) in a Bosch H4 motorcycle lens. The low beam is a little whiter and brighter and there is nothing lacking about the high beam. Every now and then I will remove the bulb and clean the inside of the headlight/lens with Windex and a blue paper shop cloth. My main concern is to see a little better at night and it works good enough for me. I'd love for the whole road to be lit up on low beam but I really try to limit night riding because of night time drunks, animals and all of those other surprises.
Last edited by justmealwatts; 07-04-2010 at 04:35 PM.
#27
Stock bulbs are 55/60W. These 85/100W Hella bulbs will provide an increase in intensity for $8 each.
Spend another $35 or so and replace the mediocre non-fluted stock headlight with these E-Code lamps (European code). They provide much improvement to not only "seeing distance" but the pattern of the light on both high- and low-beams. These lamps don't look as cool as stock and have fluted lenses, but if function is more important than cosmetics these are a winner, especially for the money spent. After upgrading to these nobody has mentioned the headlight appearance and I don't see it as a cosmetic detraction, but YMMV.
Spend another $35 or so and replace the mediocre non-fluted stock headlight with these E-Code lamps (European code). They provide much improvement to not only "seeing distance" but the pattern of the light on both high- and low-beams. These lamps don't look as cool as stock and have fluted lenses, but if function is more important than cosmetics these are a winner, especially for the money spent. After upgrading to these nobody has mentioned the headlight appearance and I don't see it as a cosmetic detraction, but YMMV.
Do I need to alter anything or is just ordering these to items all I need?
Plus, I currently run the Gerbring Heated Gloves. I want to add driving lights.
How much will my stock alternator take?
Thanks
#28
Yes. They are plug-and-play with the same connectors and fitment as stock.
No alterations needed.
I also use the Gerbings heated gloves and the heated liner, connected on the ACC circuit.
The '07 and later alternators have a 50A capacity. The bulbs will add about 3.5A on high-beam and 2A on low. I ran these on my '96 RK with a 32A alternator for years without problems, and neither bike has had any problem with the connectors. Since there is more current flowing through the connector it will run hotter, but if they weren't up to the task you could change them out with high-heat connectors from Auto Zone for a small price. A friend with a BMW had trouble with his connectors but I haven't.
If you add driving lights I would connect them via a relay to take the stress off the headlight circuit. In stock form the passing lamps on most FLH's are connected directly to the low-beam circuit with no relay, and IMO that might be a bit much for the connector and wiring if you add another 6A to it. Connecting the driving lights with a relay, secondary (switching) circuit on the low- or high-beams and primary directly to the battery with a dedicated 15A fuse, would be the best method even if you don't upgrade to the 80/100W H4 bulbs.
As a warning, the low-beam pattern of the E-code lamps has a sharp cut-off which is good for night riding but makes the light almost invisible to oncoming vehicles in daylight, so when using the E-code lights you should always have it switched to high-beam in the daytime. I also added a modulator (Kisan Pathblazer) which works only in daylight and makes the bike much more visible by pulsating the high-beam at 20/100% 4x/sec. It also makes the bulb run cooler which increases its lifespan (high-beam filament only), and I go years between bulb changes with the Hella 80/100W bulbs. IMO package this is the best bang-for-the-buck headlight mod available.
Do I need to alter anything or is just ordering these to items all I need?
Plus, I currently run the Gerbring Heated Gloves. I want to add driving lights.
How much will my stock alternator take?
If you add driving lights I would connect them via a relay to take the stress off the headlight circuit. In stock form the passing lamps on most FLH's are connected directly to the low-beam circuit with no relay, and IMO that might be a bit much for the connector and wiring if you add another 6A to it. Connecting the driving lights with a relay, secondary (switching) circuit on the low- or high-beams and primary directly to the battery with a dedicated 15A fuse, would be the best method even if you don't upgrade to the 80/100W H4 bulbs.
As a warning, the low-beam pattern of the E-code lamps has a sharp cut-off which is good for night riding but makes the light almost invisible to oncoming vehicles in daylight, so when using the E-code lights you should always have it switched to high-beam in the daytime. I also added a modulator (Kisan Pathblazer) which works only in daylight and makes the bike much more visible by pulsating the high-beam at 20/100% 4x/sec. It also makes the bulb run cooler which increases its lifespan (high-beam filament only), and I go years between bulb changes with the Hella 80/100W bulbs. IMO package this is the best bang-for-the-buck headlight mod available.
Last edited by iclick; 05-08-2011 at 12:40 PM.
#29
Being 2 years since I posted here about a brighter headlamp, discovered German Auto Parts from another forum. It's the 4th bulb down for $12.45 each. Reliable company with super fast shipping. Just tell them this is for a Harley-Davidson and they'll know what bulb your talking about.
Have had mine now for over a year. Talking about bright! Wow! I've turned all my riding pals onto this bulb and everyone is more than happy with end results. Originally for off road vehicles, but does my Road King wonders for being seen (daytime) and seeing at night.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Hardware/Bulbs/H4
Have had mine now for over a year. Talking about bright! Wow! I've turned all my riding pals onto this bulb and everyone is more than happy with end results. Originally for off road vehicles, but does my Road King wonders for being seen (daytime) and seeing at night.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Hardware/Bulbs/H4
Last edited by wagsrk08; 05-08-2011 at 05:35 PM.
#30
Yes. They are plug-and-play with the same connectors and fitment as stock.
Connecting the driving lights with a relay, secondary (switching) circuit on the low- or high-beams and primary directly to the battery with a dedicated 15A fuse, would be the best method even if you don't upgrade to the 80/100W H4 bulbs.
I go years between bulb changes with the Hella 80/100W bulbs. IMO package this is the best bang-for-the-buck headlight mod available.
Connecting the driving lights with a relay, secondary (switching) circuit on the low- or high-beams and primary directly to the battery with a dedicated 15A fuse, would be the best method even if you don't upgrade to the 80/100W H4 bulbs.
I go years between bulb changes with the Hella 80/100W bulbs. IMO package this is the best bang-for-the-buck headlight mod available.
Is this the bulb you run?
And for the switching, you are saying get a relay and a 15 amp fuse connected to the battery then connect to the low or high beams. Correct? How do I determine which relay to get.
Thanks Iclick, you are always helpful.