How to make your tourpak on your UltraClassic Quick Detachable!
 

*UPDATE 3/01/11* PICS INSERTED AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've always been able to take my tourpak off my Ultra and convert to the StreetGlide look, but it always meant coiling up 1000 foot of wires and placing them under the seat with the potential to rub and irritate the wires. This would potentially cause a short or break in the wiring so I got the parts together and tackled putting Deutsch connectors on the wires so that disconnecting would be effortless and only leave a fraction of the wires to move under the seat.

There are 2 options for putting the connectors together:
1. Go to the Harley shop and go through a bazillion part numbers to piece the necessary connectors together, but be forwarned Harley sells EACH INDIVIDUAL piece so good luck with that.

2. Get the parts from Drag Specialties because the connectors come with all the necessary little grommets all in the appropriate connector bags.

The latter is what I chose for sure!

Drag Specialties part #'s for connectors and pins with quantity also:

(1) 2120-0046 Black 6-pin Receptacle
(1) 2120-0058 Black 6-pin Socket plug
(1) 2120-0045 Gray 6-pin Receptacle
(1) 2120-0057 Gray 6-pin Socket plug
(1) 2120-0041 Gray 3-pin Receptacle-for tourpak lights
(1) 2120-0053 Gray 3-pin Socket plug-for tourpak lights
(2) 2120-0035 pk of 10 Male pins
(2) 2120-0036 pk of 10 Female pins

Pic of the Drag Specialties goodies:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak9.jpg

The Harley shop shorted me the part #2120-0053 so I had to piece one from the OEM Harley stuff so that's why you don't see this part number in the pic.

There are 6 wires for each side that are the speaker wires and 3 wires for the tourpak lighting.

Next it's cut and crimp: Cut the sheath away from the wires to expose the 6-speaker wires on each side:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak2.jpg

Speaker wires on one side exposed:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak1.jpg

Strip the end of each wire about 1/8th to place in the male and female pins:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak3.jpg

You don't need to strip off alot because as you will see, it only takes a tiny bit of pin to "bite down" on the wire and the other part of the pin grabs the sheath around each wire for stability so don't go stripping alot off each end.

Bad pic...sorry......Load up the appropriate pin in the M-Crimpers:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak4.jpg

*note* I had access to the $400 tool for this job but I wanted to see if the cheap Harbor Freight M-Crimper was a viable option for those that do not have access to the expensive tool and this crimper worked like a charm. Piece of cake!!

M-Crimping each of the 6-speaker wires on both sides. Same process for the 3-tourpak lighting wires:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak6.jpg

Pins in place ready for Deustch connector application:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak7.jpg

Deustch connector and moisture barriers in place. Do this for both sides and same with the 3-wire tourpak lighting Deustch setup:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...n/tourpak5.jpg

All finished up.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...tourpak8-1.jpg

The white is so you can see the plugs. I chose to go Gray on one side and Black on the other so taking them apart and putting them back together would not be confusing, however, this is really overkill because if you cut the wires short enough, or close to the battery, you make the chance of crossing wiring a non-issue.

You WANT to cut them close to the battery so there is more wiring that is removed with the tourpak than what stays on the bike, hence, less wires to coil!!!:icon_drink:

Like this! Mo better!!!
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1298999135

Concluding, the only wires that are left to coil under the seat now is the CB antenna wire and the rear passenger headset attachment. The CB antenna wire is a sheilded wire so this will be taken to my local Radio & Communication shop and they can put an in-line plug in the same position that these quick disconnects are and then the CB can be disconnected under the seat as well.

Good luck and I hope this helps. It is a VERY EASY task and well worth it, because as stated, no more potential to rub, irritate, and break wires coiled under the seat. Plug and Play!!!:icon_eddie:

Very Trick!!!! Nice write-up..... Thanks!!

Great idea will have to add that to my winter list.

Very nice write-up! Nice, proper job. Well done!

great write-up for us rookies.well done!
leftcoast carl.

Excellent writeup and photos. Thank you.

great job explaining it ...i think i will have to tackle this job soon...thanks

Excellent!!!! Perfect photos and directions. Thank you.

Just to reiterate, this job is EXTREMELY easy and for those that ride their Ultra both with and without the tourpak it is so much better not worrying about shorting out stressed coiled up wires.

If there is anything else I can assist, just post.

Also, In "StreetGlide Mode" I should mention that even the rear AM/FM antenna wire gets removed with the tourpak with the quick disconnect antenna setup but the "hard-wired" AM/FM line stays on the bike to put your shorty antenna on to still be able to receive signal and listen to the radio.:icon_toast:

Nice write up and photos help to understand. Another choice for the antenna wires for the CB and am/fm radio is to put the J&M in fairing antenna for the CB and the $21.00 AM/FM from ebay (the AM/FM works suprising well inside the fairing I get more stations than with the J&M short antenna on the T/P). It allows the antenna wires to be coiled, zip tied and placed in front of the battery out of the way and not plugged and unplugged with removal of the T/P. It also gives you use of both radios when in the solo mode. Thanks again for the write up