Changing rear wheel
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Northern Alabama
Changing rear wheel
OK, I asked last week (?) about my flat rear tire and the general thought was that I should go ahead & replace it due to being flat and 2/3 worn out. My question now is how much trouble will I run into changing it? I have an '05 Ultra Classic with Reinhart true duals and ten spoke chrome wheels.
From what I can see I will need to do the following:
1. Remove bags,
2. Remove left & right pipes/mufflers
3. Remove the axle nut
4. Remove axle bolt
After this, will the wheel drop down?
Am I missing a step?
What will be involved in getting the wheel back in alignment?
What about shims or spacers?
I do have a manual & have reviewed it. I am just looking for advice in plain english explaining the obvious. FWIW, I have been wrenching for 50 years, but this is my first HD to work on.
Thanks
From what I can see I will need to do the following:
1. Remove bags,
2. Remove left & right pipes/mufflers
3. Remove the axle nut
4. Remove axle bolt
After this, will the wheel drop down?
Am I missing a step?
What will be involved in getting the wheel back in alignment?
What about shims or spacers?
I do have a manual & have reviewed it. I am just looking for advice in plain english explaining the obvious. FWIW, I have been wrenching for 50 years, but this is my first HD to work on.
Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Last time I removed my rear wheel.After you have removed the rear axle shaft. I found it easier to remove the shocks and jack my lift up as high as it would go. It's not a tough job. Remember to hang on to which side the spacers go on. Alignment is fairly simple. Start by counting the turns. This will get you close. With the bike still in the air, run the wheel around and adjust the tracking of the belt as needed.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Texas
you're on the right track. some don't remove mufflers, only loosen, but i find the little extra time makes job easier. there are spacers on each side, just keep them seperate. as far as alignment, there are cams which keep wheel aligned as you set belt tension. don't get belt too tight or it will whine....know this from my one and only dealer service. good luck and ride safe.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,023
Likes: 989
From: Just Outside Chicago
I just finished this job on my 04 E-glide and after doing a search i found ALOT of very helpful info...What you have so far is correct BUT i did not remove mufflers just rear bolts.I also removed lower shock bolts and used a jack under rear wheel to raise and lower it and found it VERY EZ!! Don't forget to mark your tension point on your axel so you can return it to same point. I also found it helpful to have a rod alittle smaller than axel to line everything up then slide axel in with anti seaze lube (GREASE)... Good Luck!!
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Northern Alabama
Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I went ahead & tried my luck. The whell came off with no real issues. I pulled the bags, removed the mufflers from the pipes, removed the shock bolts, marked the adjusters and removed the axle bolt. The wheel rolled right out.
Now one more question please. -
As I said, I have the chrome ten spoke wheels, but do I need to remove the brake rotor and the cogged drive pulley before I take the wheel in to get a new tire mounted?
Thanks again!
Now one more question please. -
As I said, I have the chrome ten spoke wheels, but do I need to remove the brake rotor and the cogged drive pulley before I take the wheel in to get a new tire mounted?
Thanks again!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 279
From: North Cental Iowa
Usually you will have to remove one or the other, it depends on the kind of tire machine the shop that you're going to has. It's probably easiest to call them & ask what they prefer, some of the newer tire machines don't require either one to be removed, just call & check.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Northern Alabama
Likely easiest (and perhaps safer) for me to remove both. At least I won't have to worry about the shop breaking them.
FWIW, I was quoted $140 for a Dunlop whitewall tire & $20.00 for mounting and balancing. Does that sound about what I should expect from an indy?
The local HD dealer quoted $170 for a blackwall & $80 for mounting the tire.
FWIW, I was quoted $140 for a Dunlop whitewall tire & $20.00 for mounting and balancing. Does that sound about what I should expect from an indy?
The local HD dealer quoted $170 for a blackwall & $80 for mounting the tire.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Don't remove the disc or pulley if you don't have to...as suggested, make a call to the shop you are using and ask them. At most, you will only have to remove one or the other. Most modern tire changers will have the clearance to allow the disc and pulley to stay attached. In fact, it's always better to balance the tire with the disc and pulley attached to the wheel, that way you get the best static balance you can hope for. As for the $20 to mount and balance, well, you won't beat that price anywhere. Just make sure they don't do anything to mar or scratch your rims and that they are experienced in changing-out motorcycle tires. You can always buy your own changer from Cycle Hill or NoMar, they make high quality tire changers for the do-it-yourselfer at a moderate price. And their tools will not mar your wheels at all. Enjoy your new tire!
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1
From: Desert S. West
Sounds like you're handy enough to by the tire online and change it out yourself. There are lots of videos on YouTube for tire changing. Use Dyna Beads for balancing and you're golden. Save a ton of money that way too.