I change all fluids at service interval if required or not; easier for me to keep track of then guessing what I did and when.

Tool your looking for is the Belt Tension Tester Tool - part number 40006-85; price in 2011 Harley-Davidson catalog is $29.95

 

ditto. thats what i do and the belt tool is mcheap amnd easy to use. go fer it

 

My dealership charged me $305 for the 1K and wants $369.95 for the 5K. They also recommend changing the oil every 2500 miles. That will surely drain your wallet. I let them do the 1K (warranty issue - see owners manual page 229 item #1). The 5K is easy. I saved $240.30. The owners manual lists the recommended service intervals and items to check/replace. I mentioned that at 1K my exhaust needed some closer attention as I suspected a mild leak. That is one of the check items. Do you think they would check that? At 5K I torqued the flange & TORCA nuts myself. As suspected, they were a tad loose. No more hiss. I dumped the fossil oil after the break-in at 5K and went with synthetic (not Syn 3).

 

I change all three every 5000 miles. Lets me know what's going on in the transmission and primary for the cost of some oil.

 

I also change all 3, doesnt really take that much time or add that much extra to the cost. The belt tension tool is readily available at most HD dealers and is very easy to use. More than likely, I bet it is right in tolerance and wont need adjusted anyway. The only thing that can be intimidating is adjusting the clutch, it was that whole "feel" concept, but it is easy. I was scared as well at first, but its really pretty easy as long as you have the manual.

As far as the one poster that quoted the manual page 229 in regards to first service, they (HD) can not require the dealer to do first service unless they provide it as no charge, just like they can not say you must use HD branded oil to preserve your warranty.

 

If the bike is under warranty keep a log book and all your rec, if you are doing the work yourself. Write everything down mileage, date, work performed.

 

I tear the lid off of the oil filter box and write down the mileage, date, type of oil I put in, and any other service I performed (plugs, air filter service, etc.) then staple the receipts to the lid. That's just me....

 

I plan to do my 5000 mile service tomorrow since the weather is going to be wet anyway. Plan to do all 3 since it shouldn't take that much more time and is minimal cost anyway.

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I decided to go with what the owner's manual said and just did engine oil and filter this time. Did the other inspections except i did not have the tool to check the drive belt tension. Next time I will buy that tool before the 10K service.

Another thing.....didn't have the recommended filter wrench, so getting that filter off was a character building experience. Strap wrench.....FAIL. Bare hands....FAIL. Punching screwdriver through the filter and loosening that way...worked like a champ. So, add the filter wrench to the tools l will buy before next service.

By the way, any tips for catching that oil that drains out of the filter? I just let it run down into the drain pan, but that meant a lot of wiping down of stuff after the old filter was off.

One interesting note: I only got about 3 1/4 quarts of oil out of the engine when I drained it. It was good and HOT and was full level before starting this job. That means there's almost a quart of oil that is stuck in the oil pan or elsewhere after draining (assuming the 4 quart total is accurate for the engine).

All in all not too bad of a job. Next time I'll be armed with those couple of tools and it should go even smoother. Thanks again for all the good replies.

One last thing: The oil/filter and drain plug o-ring cost a total of $55. The quote for the dealer to do this 5k service was $350. That's $300 left in my pocket (hopefully to go towards stage one over the winter)

 

My dealer charged $ 290 for 5k. I think I will do the 10k myself.