I'm thinking about beef'n up the OEM clutch to either Barnett clutch plates or Kevlar Friction plates. How difficult of a job is this? And what "special" tools are required? There's nothing wrong with the clutch now, just thought I might want a stronger clutch for pulling the new trailer.

 

I would suggest you purchase a HD Manual before doing "ANY" work on your ride. I paid $55. I'm not sure about your year. I have a 2011 & no special tools needed to just replaced clutch plates/ect. But again, make it easy on yourself & get that manual. I'm sure someone else can give you more info. Good luck.

 

Nice trailer, but try H-D part #37951-98 heavy duty clutch spring for stock clutch. It may be more work then you want to try IMO

 

I have the manual for my 07 Ultra....but if I'm going to change the spring, why not change the plates while I'm in there?

Thanks for the compliments on the trailer

 

Take a look at the AIM VPC. It's a clutch "hat" and has a very light pull, two fingers, but will hold. It retains the stock clutch.

http://www.aim-tamachi.com/home.php?cat=3

 

Are you using the AIM VPC?

 

Yes, the 83T (discontinued) on my 95" FXSTD and the 92T on my 107" FLHT. Some will tell you that it won't bite off idle but I can light the rear tire up on both bikes off idle with the VPC. I don't think you would need the SE spring with a VPC but it might not be a bad idea with the trailer (that's a lot of trailer). Either way, the lever pull will be lighter than stock.

 

The trailer body is all aluminum, total dry weight is 190lbs. All my camping gear loaded, total weight 300lbs. Did you go Stage 1 or Stage 2 VP Performance Kit?

 

Actually, when I bought my first one, the units were not classified as Stage I, 2, etc. There was a 70T, 83T, 92T and one more IIRC. The only difference in the Stages is the spring; the VP92 is common to all stages. Stage I = 280#/120TQ, Stage 2 = 340"/140TQ, Stage 3 = 380#/153TQ and Stage 4 = 480#/182TQ. The spring rating will help with the bite off idle, once the clutch is spinning the counter weights take over. I would think Stage I would be adequate for your application; for sure Stage 2 would get the job done.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking stage 2 for the 340# spring.