How to Replace Idle Air Control (IAC) on 2007 EFI?
#31
01-25-2012, 12:11 PM
Road Master
I had my tank off when I replaced the IAC motor. So I did not remove the induction module. Although I have new intake seals at home right now, just in case. Previously I was having problems with an intermittent abnormal fast idle for several months. After reading a lot about it on this forum, the band-aid fix was spraying it with carb cleaner every so often. So at the 50K service I pulled the tank, replaced the filter in the tank and replaced the IAC motor. I was going to put new plug wires on it but they never came in until too late. I have them now and will put them on at a later date. The small/short hose on the filter itself comes with the filter kit. I did not however replace the hose from the quick connect tank fitting to the pump. HD wants $79.00 for this simple piece of hose because it comes with a new quick connect fitting. My hose "looked" okay so I kept my money and reused the original. Also, the tank yesterday afternoon was completely full. Not sure if that would make a difference or not. And the gas was bought at a station I have used many times before. So I don't think it would be bad gas. Besides, can bad gas make it idle high or surge. Going to check for intake leaks tonight. Thought about using propane since I have plenty and have adapters and hoses I should be able to get it close to leak sources without getting it into the air cleaner side of the intake. I'll let you know.
#32
01-25-2012, 12:14 PM
Road Master
True enough. I will recheck a lot of things tonight. Will also look into a TPS. But there are no codes recorded. But I'll check it just the same because I've seen TPS problems without codes on other vehicles. Stands to reason that it could happen on Harleys as well.
#33
01-25-2012, 12:16 PM
Road Master
#34
01-25-2012, 01:12 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Not sure. Just remember a thread on it. Being I have a softail I didnt pay close attn to the service bullitin. I just remember it had to do with the housings cracking and causing an issue. When you do plan on changing the fuel line look into Napa/Gates submersibl line. Much better than what HD used.
Last edited by soft 02; 01-25-2012 at 01:14 PM.
#35
01-26-2012, 04:46 PM
You may have run across one of my earlier tirades regarding my TPS ordeal, but I'll summarize here. I had very random misfire and high-idle issues that might not recur for several weeks or even months between incidents, and it took me over a year to link it to the TPS. Without any codes at first to guide me I changed plugs, plug wires, fuel-tank innards (hoses, filter, FPR, etc.), IAC motor, and none of it stopped the sporadic problems. Finally last summer the problem worsened and I started getting TPS codes. Replacing it has fixed the problem, going on seven months of perfect running now. (Knocking on wood and fingers crossed.)
#36
01-26-2012, 07:05 PM
Road Master
FOUND IT! I made a pretty cool little propane kit for locating for intake leaks, and it worked really slick too. But I did not find any intake leaks at all. The whole time it was idling, it was running rough, smoothing out, running rough and mis-firing. Sounded like crap! I decided to recheck for codes and this time found a TPS code, P0122. I pulled the TPS and noticed immediately it was really sloppy. Did not move smoothly at all. I hooked up an Ohm meter and found it very erratic and unsteady, especially at the idle position. Got a new one installed and fired her up, all is well, idles good again. A buddy of mine suggested I check for a broken throttle shaft while I was in there. Which I did. Apparantly that can couse erratic idle and throttle problems as well. Thankfully, no broken throttle shaft. So it looks like the TPS has fixed my issue as well. Thanks to everyone for your help, suggestions, ideas and support.
#37
01-26-2012, 08:41 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#38
04-13-2014, 03:32 PM
I chased intermittent idle and misfiring problems for over a year, changing the IAC, in-tank hoses and pressure regulator, and finally the TPS. The first two didn't help, or at least the second didn't and the first only for a short time, but after changing the TPS my bike has been running perfectly now for six weeks. That said, the IAC can be the source of idle problems, and if misfiring is part of the problem an in-tank leak causing a fuel-pressure reduction can also contribute.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Thanks for taking the time to post this.
#39
04-13-2014, 04:22 PM
#40
06-06-2019, 08:15 AM
5th Gear
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Woodstock CT
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I chased intermittent idle and misfiring problems for over a year, changing the IAC, in-tank hoses and pressure regulator, and finally the TPS. The first two didn't help, or at least the second didn't and the first only for a short time, but after changing the TPS my bike has been running perfectly now for six weeks. That said, the IAC can be the source of idle problems, and if misfiring is part of the problem an in-tank leak causing a fuel-pressure reduction can also contribute.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
I seem to be having a similar problem, which I recently posted about in my own new thread. I will paste my original comments below so you don't have to chase them down. My problem seems similar to what you describe, except the bike does not throw a code, and it seems to runs perfectly (excellent actually, quick and responsive with no apparent glitches) at speed. The only symptoms are an unusual "high idle" just after starting when cold (it drops down to normal idle if left for a minute or two) and of course the main stalling problem described below. Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
QUOTED ORIGINAL THREAD:
I recently picked up a 2007 CVO Ultra Classic (first year of the 110 motor with 6-speed trans). I thought I got a pretty good deal at $10k with 22k on it and needing a few things. I've seen them cheaper but only with more miles, and who knows what else they needed? Mine had a defective factory radio, which I'm told is a common occurrence for that model year ($350 for it to be refurbished and the people the dealer sent it to for refurbishing stole the integrated GPS out of it while they had it, so be careful if you ever let someone do that to yours). It also had dead air shocks (replaced with Progressive 944s for $700). Other than those two things I took care of (and adding a quick-release kit for the tour-pak), I only have one issue with the bike:
It has a persistent and chronic stalling problem whenever it's been run long enough to be fully warmed up (say over an hour without stopping). It'll be running great as it always seems to, then I'll stop at a stop sign or traffic light and as soon as it drops to idle, it stalls. Start it back up, it'll idle fine and run fine until the next stop sign, and then stall again as soon as it drops to idle again. Sometimes instead of stalling it'll drop to a very low idle and chug-chug-chug like it wants to stall, and a blip of the throttle will bring it back up to normal (until the next stop sign). I'm the third owner, so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been abused. It has Rinehart True Dual pipes but otherwise seems pretty close to stock. It doesn't leak and it runs like a raped ape at speed. I took it to the dealer where it was originally purchased and they kept it a week. They claimed they could not reproduce the problem but they replaced the voltage regulator (for $400) and gave it back to me. And it still has the stalling problem! They also claimed it does not "throw a code" so I'm trying to figure out what kind of problem would be so consistent but not throw a code? A friend suggested it might be a defective engine CPU, but that should definitely generate some kind of code, no? The dealer insists it doesn't. What can I do, other than pay the dealer for an open-ended diagnosis that could run $1000 or more? And maybe still not fix it! I even called The Motor Company and spoke with one of their techs, and he said he'd never heard of this problem. Has anyone heard of this? Any ideas how to address it? A million thanks to whomever can figure this one out.