No rattles here....

 

Thanks, Gump. The work's all done. It's just the writeup that takes time.

 

I hope they work out for you. Trial and error is a hard way to go, but it seems to be all most of us can do.

No: work's all done and it seems tight. I'd take it off and fool around with it. It's only 2 attachment points, the screw on bottom and a spring clip on top. The screw goes into another spring-metal clip, too. So maybe a little bending will get it snugged up. Good luck.

 

Great write-up, I'm looking forward to reading the rest. I have Heritage Bars on my King & love them!

 

Let's not forget, this is a pictorial about changing handlebars, not a debate on which bars to install.

 

DR JAY

You are the man ! - I've been waiting for a thread with pics so that I could do the bars on my RK

Thank You!!!

 

Dr Jay~ Great pictorial & the best I've seen on the installation of new bars on a Roadking....Bar none!

Drillin Boss~ Certainly not trying to hi-jack Dr. Jays thread. Anyone that has done a search on Heritage bars knows you love them. All I was stating is that what may work for one person certainly may not work for another especially in regards to handlebars for a Roadking.

 

Thanks for the kind words! The next step is to unplug the "twist grip sensor wiring harness" or TGSWH. This was probably the hardest part of the whole job, but only because you can't see what you're doing and don't quite know how it's held in there. The TGSWH is the only wire bundle that feeds through the handlebar, at least if you don't have heated grips. (The cruise control runs externally.) Anyhow, the TGSWH plugs in inside the nacelle, and runs through a hole in the center of the bar, where it splits into 2 branches, each ending in a plug, which both plug in to the wires coming from the twist grip sensor itself.

Here are 2 pictures of the TGSWH. They won't give you a good feel for which harness it is: you just have to pull on the bundle where it exits the bottom of the handlebar and see which wiring bundle moves inside the nacelle until you figure it out. In the first picture, I'm holding the TGSWH. Notice that the outer tape or plastic sheath is frayed and worn through. This was true along the whole length of the bundle, probably from pulling it through the handlebar at the factory. After I got it out of the bars, I wrapped it well with some thin electrical tape. The white thing above my index finger is a paper tag on the harness.



The other way to know you have the right harness is that it splits near the end, and goes to a small unused (in my bike) plug. Not sure what this is for.



Anyhow, the large plug that you have to undo is held captive: it clips on to a vertical stud on top of the "fork lock plate". The stud (and plug) is on the upper left side of the headlamp cavity, as you face the rear of the bike. To free it from the stud, you need to push the whole plug (male/female, still plugged together) towards the back of the bike, and then lift it up off the stud. You can't unplug it until you can haul it out where you can see it. The next picture shows the slot (big hole to small hole) on the plug:



Flipping the plug over, you can either push on the button near my index finger




or insert a small screwdriver and lever up gently on the thin tab in the slot.



Either way: unplug it. The only hard part is over, and you're ready to remove the left and right lever/grip/switch assemblies from the ends of the handlebar.

 

Dr Jay,

Just FYI, that extra plug is for Heated Grips.

Great Write up on the install. Wish my Bagger Ape install was this easy.

 

To remove the brake assembly on the right grip, start by inserting some cardboard under the leading edge of the brake lever to hold it partially "squeezed". I cut 3 or 4 thin pieces of cardboard, squeezed the lever, pushed it in there (leave some hanging out) and put a piece of red tape on it to keep it from falling out, which it probably wouldn't do anyhow. The whole point of this is that the brake light switch (4th picture down) can get buggered up when you put the lever back on if the lever isn't partly squoze. Here's a bad picture of the cardboard shims in place:



Unscrew the clamp which holds the brake lever and master cylinder on the handlebar. It uses 2 obvious T27 torx screws.



My lever had to be wiggled quite a bit to get it off. I hung it down gently, and rested it wedged on top of the towel on top of the crash bar: it seemed happy to stay there, and the brake line didn't look stressed.



Here's the brake switch button (with rubber bellows) on the switch assembly, which you're trying to protect with the cardboard shim trick.



Finally, remove the switch housing, which is attached with two torx T25 screws. One is on top, and one is underneath.