What is a leaksown test?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

 

can't believe nobody mentioned sumping,happens after cam change when o rings on oil pump don't sit right.runs hot and down on power.

 

Something surely doesn't seem right, 66hp is wrong. As others have said, the 255's are mild cams; but even the basic Stage 1 should have bumped you 4-7 in the hp area.

 

Hows the powerband. Dyno numbers are just numbers. How's the ride and roll on passing power

 

I would say that this needs some real attention, you are right, that is a good place to have an issue when you do work in that area, although no one I know has ever had a problem with those o rings....

 

What is a leakdown test?

 

compression test with motor stopping with both valves in the closed position and watch the pressure drop over a period of time. May be easier to accomplish using air pressure in special fitting that fits into spark plug hole to pressurize the cylinder.
here are some numbers from my engine work 2 winters worth. originally did stage 2 kit 103 with 255 cams stock pipes. cold cranking pressure 197 lbs in each cylinder--didnt get it dynoed but Im guessing it was about 90tq and 82hp by the feel of it. had manual compression releases installed.
the next winter buy mva heads change pistons to 10.5:1 leave cams alone, vance and hines power duels and monster rounds. now has auto decompression releases. cold cranking pressure 120 lbs in both cylinders. got it on dyno with one of the 255 maps in race tuner files about 6 smart tune runs got 93 hp and 98 tq as a base run.
dyno guy that i think did a terrible job ,Ill get into that in a minute. used a different map got less then used a different map got 100hp and 107 tq. So the 255 wil make afair amount of power but the torque is almost full from 2800 to 5500. It flies when u hit 4000 rpm and is plenty fast enough for what i need, mainly driving in mountains on trips so the monster torque does the trick and rarely have to shift down on hills. now the fun stuff battery connection came loose on way to dyno and was very hard to start. the dyno guy forgets to turn acr's on in program and eventually by the time i get home it hardly turns over then battery post screw blows off from the poor connection. Fix the loose connection but the starter has taken one hell of a beating and craps out 10 months later while at biketoberfest . 800 bucks later new battery and high torque starter, it has never turned over so fast.
I had called the dyno guy up to ask him some questions about the acr's he doesnt have time for me but sure took my 400 bucks real fast, so i backward download last program from emc and look at it acr;s off , I turn them back on , all my ve table are stock from original race tuner program and afr's are all pretty well 14.6 except last 2 columbs. I change them to 13.8 in driving areas and leave wide open throttles under 13 and 12's. All the timing tables are untouched also and Im getting a bit of pinging at 2800 rpm. so I take a couple of degrees out in that rpm range.
The guy didnt change anything in the base race tuner program even though it picked up 7 hp and 9 torque. had he updated the ve tables and played with the timing and got the afr's in a 13.8 range im sure it would have squeeked out a couple more ponies. then I look at the dyno sheet he gave me the original base run with no other runs on it. At least I saw the 100 hp and 107 torque run on his screen. this guy was supposed to be the best guy around me and didnt do **** but waste my time and money. I go to load the program back into the bike and it wont go and i get a message the program is too old for my emc. not sure how he did it but I know at one point he worked at a harley dealer and must know ways around stuff like this. Then i find a newer version of the program in my race tuner files with exactly the same values in every area so I adjust the numbers on afr take timing out got rid of the ping and did about 5 smart tune runs to get the afr's more accurate. Ill probably polish my throttle body instead of buying the 58 m one. Try a different dyno guy this time

 

It sounds like you should have a dyno considering how well you understand all this stuff. This stuff is still completely over my head but I'm learning...

I have a 2009 RKC so 96 engine and had it dyno'd with KN air filter, SERT and VH slip ons; no cams or anything outside of 'stage 1' and my dyno sheet shows 73 hp and 93 ft/lbs of torque.

What I was told by a local 'bike whisperer' is that the narrow band O2 sensors in the mufflers are extremely limited and provide the feedback to the fuel injectors computer so the mix can be adjusted in real time (within a certain percentage).

Because the 09's had narrow band I was limited in my choices of mufflers. If I chose something fancy like horn shaped or fish tails the sensors wouldn't get a correct read and so I was limited to conventional shaped slip ons, and muffler/sensor issues were a common mistake.

I listened to the advice and my bike doesn't backfire and rolls right at good numbers within stage 1. At some point I might look into more sophisticated sensors, cams and a cooler slip on setup like fishtails, but for now I'm happy with being tuned up right.

I have to wonder if this might have something to do your current issues? Maybe just a bad sensor feeding garbage information if your Power Commander/super tuner are not able to correct things, and you find nothing else (compression test etc) that was suggested here.

 

Here is a picture of the dyno after the runs, any ideas?

HP 64.29
TQ 88.48

This stinks...