I went the cheap route on mine and used the stock push rods with zero issues, nice and quiet.....good luck with the install!

 

when i do mine i put new lifter and one of the lifter never pumped i av one bad in the four

 

I had one lifter bleed down on me to when I did the 103 build. I sent the heads off and it was down for 1 month. After it started, it sounded OK for about 20 seconds then the really loud ticking started. After I checked everything over I restarted it and just let it idle and after 5 minutes or so the lifter finally pumped back up.

 

All you have to do to avoid bleed-down issues is to take a common oil gun and squirt some oil into the side oil-galley hole just prior to installing them.

 

I didn't pull the lifters out during the time it was down and never thought about them bleeding down. Hopefully there won't be a next time, but I will know to check them. It pumped back up on it's own so no harm no foul.

 

It's a good idea to pre-charge pushrods (regardless of type) and new lifters with oil. Squirt it in with a syringe or some other method, but just get it in there somehow. Soaking does not work very well...too much surface tension in the oil to allow it to get in the small holes. Pre-charging will cut way down on the time it takes to get the system pressured-up after first start. At least that has been my experience.

 

Sounds like a good idea, if for no other reason than to get the oil to the top end quicker. When did you inject the oil, prior to putting the PR's in place? I wouldn't think it would drain quickly from those small holes. If you reuse the stockers you could inject the oil from the top when they're in place, i.e. prior to putting the rocker components back together.

 

I'd give my 2 cents on this but since iclick is "on the case" I'm just typing this so I can subscribe and follow the thread to see what happens!

 

On the last set of cams for this bike, I used the S&S Quickie Adjustable push rods. I filled the pushrod tubes full just before slipping them into place. I don't know how much of the oil stayed in, but I don't recall seeing much oil run out of the bottom of the rods once they were seated. That same surface tension that keeps oil from voluntarily entering a small orifice most likely serves to prevent the oil from exiting a small orifice. When I first started the bike, I had no knocking or weird noises, so I must assume that the rods held the oil pretty well. Who knows.

 

At least some of the oil would remain, so IMO that makes it worthwhile. Good tip.