After my experience (above) any motor build done for myself or friends will have a welded crank. Once bitten twice shy. That one pretty much wasted the entire motor except for the cases and heads.

Another thing to think about...chain drive cams will tolerate more runout than gears. With the additional runout though will come additional vibes. My 120" runs smoother than in any of it's 3 previous lives as a stock 88" and two different 98" builds and it's smoother than any stock 96" or 103" bike I've ridden.

Rick

 

Co-worker had a 95 upgrade installed on a 2000 88ci, was fine for a time(2 years+/-) then added replacement cams, newer fuel injection, was supposed to be dyno'd at 78HP, had a engine mount fail on a distance ride, caught on a routine service so was changed. Vibration was so bad could barely ride it so as returned home took it into indy for check out, crank had 'Scissor slipped' at the rod journal.

They showed him a box of same issue cranks going to their reman company, to be inspected, refitted with new rod bearings then the journal welded in place, rebalanced and sent back for seven engines on their shop floor. Some were stock 88's, some upgrade repairs and others were being done for upgrades and found with too much runout. They are now shipping out all upgrade engine cranks, don't like freebie redo's.

 

There few cranks that scissor but it does happen. Local indy keeps a couple trued & welded cranks in stock. Pressed cranks were never designed for burnouts and/or 100+ hp. If ya plays hard, just know your luck may run out. I didn't do headwork or raise limiter because I didn't want to worry to much about the crank. I'm ok living with 110/100 for now...

 

From those who have done it, how much more work to remove the motor once you have jugs and pistons off? Then how much to get the crank trued and welded?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

It was $2k for me and that's driving in and picking it up when done. That's for tear down rering without any other mods

 

I am building a 107 now, I'm aming for 115+ hp and 120+ trq and I will ride it hard when I feel the need. I hate that naging in the back of my mind if I'm knot sure about the bottom end.

So my bottom end is at Darkhorse now. Ballanced, trued, pluged and welded along with H beam rods and timkin upgrade. As well as all new bearings. There is more to the bottom end than just welding the crank.

All of this adds up to a a smoother more durable motor and piece of mind.

I know I'll sleep better. YMMV.

 

So did you do the tear down? How much $$$ for what Darkhorse is doing now?

 

Yes, I did the tear down. I did not split the cases, sent the complete bottom end to DH.

I was quoted just over $1500 for every thing listed above. There will be an additional $200+ in shipping.

Removing the lower end is knot that much more work, removeing the primary is the toughest part.

 

Have them put the bike on the lift remove cam cover, remove cam plate and cams, slap on a dial indicator if the have one, or offer to bring mine in if they dont. pretty simple if they want to sell a $20,000 dollar bike.

And I need to correct myself a little bit here. I would only make them do this if it was a used CVO bike or 110" bike with 10,000+ miles or if it was Modded.

the dealership close to me had a 09 CVO Rodie with 25,000mile in silver that I loved! standing there looking at it and the former owner was there and we started talking....... he tried to have gear drives installed and the crank was at .008 and oil pump was showing wear. they buttoned it back up stock he traded it in for a new bike and they were trying to sell it for $27,500..........A ticking time bomb, or it would run forever. but not a gamble I like to take.

 

If your going to spend good money on a build, why wouldn't you want to have the crank done? Is it a "myth"...don't get your crank done and you tell us...