I did my own build, my customer service sucks!

 

I thought most caught on with the "build went well" comment. At least you haven't been directed to the service manual yet.

The 30T sprocket really helped my 555/107 combo. Burns a bit more fuel but cruises great at about 3200 rpm.

 

Downloaded yur tune, thanks. I'll give her a go tomorrow morning and let you know how it goes.

 

Any update?

 

Just my opinion, but once you do a Big Bore, cams, etc and especially if you did it yourself for the first time, then it is a really good idea to take it to a respected dyno tuner. I love the Power Vision, but after a engine build, the bike will benefit greatly from a dyno tune and you will get an experienced eye to check for leaks, pr adjustments that might be a tad off, etc. I would be shocked if anybody picked up their bike from a good tuner and be disappointed about spending the $$.

 

Loaded your tune, did not make any difference, interesting. Thanks for the help.

General update, I ran some AT's and Jamie at FM modified those results and sent me a tune that has made some improvements so I am headed in the right direction.
As a test, I loaded the tune that I was running prior to the 107 build, no stumble on take off, no stumble in the 2K's, Indicating it's a tune problem and not something amiss with the build. I think it's time to get it Dyno'd, anyone know a tuner well versed with PV around San Jose California?

 

What map did you put back on the 255? If that is the case it is 20% richer down low than you combination can possible use.

I wouldn't count on it being a map problem only. I have had more than one instance with the same symptoms and one was front cam was off 1 tooth advanced and the others were O2 sensors swapped or bad. You can run compression test and front and rear should be with in 10#'s of each other. When off a tooth between cams it will be 20 to 40 pounds difference. If off a tooth on tooth on the main chain both will be low or higher than should be. I would guess the 555 in 107 would be close to 200, but just a guess. Easy way to tell if problem with the O2's is just unplug them. The Gray plug is for the front cylinder and the BLACK is the BACK cylinder. Even if not crossed one or both could be bad. Had a guy with 13 Triglide and had a dealership put 255's and dyno it and had exactly the same issue as you. Stumbling and running very hot. Carried it back and they did another dyno and no difference. They also put different exhaust on it. He took it to another dyno shop and same results. i got him to unplug the O2's and it ran fine. He took it back and told the dealership and they put new O2's in and told him both were bad. I suspect they got crossed and covered their rear. Also if you get never seize on the sensor part it can mess them up.
If the autotune numbers were pretty large I would suspect it is a mechanical/electrical issue some where. The map I sent you is running on several combinations very similar to yours.

 

I'd be surprised if ke5rdb map was off. Many members have had excellent results. He provided me a map and I later had the bike dyno'd just to be perfect. Really wasn't off that much.

 

Do you have any other slip-ons around that you can swap to for a test?

My tuned setup ran like a top. CFR's, Rineharts, 255's. Switched to CFR's and lost the bottom end. It absolutely needed a tune but I didn't want to lose the bottom end.

Just a suggestion.

 

Yes I put the 103/255's tune on and it runs better as I said earlier.
I checked compression, 200 for both cyl., checked for exhaust leaks, checked for intake leaks, checked TB purge tube, checked that the O2 sensors where plugged in correctly, checked wiring connections. All seems OK. I will unplug the O2's and see what happens.

Thanks for the input, I'll keep searching for any type of mechanical/electrical issue.

Yeah thanks, I have some VH Twin Slash I could swap out as the trial and error continues.