I am running a round 4 prong connector on mine. It is fed from a Draw-Tite Isolator (#18187) It is 5 in (plus power wire) from the TG and 4 out to the connector.

Rather than hardwiring it in, I am using Y pigtail I got from J&P cycles.

Fits under the passenger seat, and the wires run down from there and along the hitch receiver, held in place by zip-ties.

If the Y pigtail is plugged in after the stock TG load equalizer it will not work, if plugged in before the equalizer it works fine. (on my TG)

 

Trike 1

Since your trike is an 11, you may be able to install the hitch into the 4 tapped holes in the frame. Early model 11's had the holes tapped, later in that year's production they stopped tapping the holes. I had a MCHitch on my trike and all I had to do was bolt into the 4 tapped holes; very simple. I also used a 5/4 connector and isolator and it worked fine.

 

You need a Hopkins Hoppy.

 

Mine is an '11, but later in the year after they had stopped tapping the holes.

Was a bit of a pain lifting the body up a bit to get some nuts into the cross-member channel.

 

DK, not sure what you mean by lifting the body up. Can you explain a little more in detail. That's what I may have to do to get to the holes.

 

I don't have my TG here right now to look at, but if I recall correctly the front cross-member has plenty of room to get a nut onto the top.

The rear cross-member does not. The body is too close.

I removed the trunk liner to get to the 4 bolts in the bottom of the trunk and removed them. I also removed the two bolts behind the two side panels that secure the body to the frame.

I was then able to lift the back of the body up high enough to get nuts above the two holes in the rear cross-member. There was not enough room to get a wrench on them, but the edge of the cross-member, along with a flat head screwdriver provided enough flat surface to the nut to prevent it from turning while I tightened the bolts.

I used a towel between the bottom of the body and the rear cross-member to hold the body up while doing the work.

 

My Rivco hitch came with a solid bar, drilled and tapped to fit over the holes in the cross member. It lined up ok.

 

Thanks Guys, this is the info I am looking for, to make installation go a little easier as I am not to mechanically sound with motorcycles.

 

Again, Thanks for everyone's input. I installed the Rivco hitch and wiring and it took me a full day. Did run into a couple of issues.

1. Had to remove both mufflers and brackets just to get to the 2 security bolts in the rear cross member in order to install the hitch, because there was no room to inset T40 bit. PS. heat the the security nuts before attempting to remove.
2. Wiring problem, had all lights working except left trailer turn signal and brake light. That took about 2 hours to figure out that I had the main harness connector plugged into the wrong plug. Once i figured that out, all lights worked.

I highly recommend Rivco Hitch to anyone looking to install on their trike. It would be helpful if they would come out with one single wire harness with 5/4 connector and isolator for small 4 prong trailer connector instead of separate pieces.