Removing the starter motor
#1
Removing the starter motor
I need to pull the starter motor out of my 1997 Dyna FXDS. It looks like a case of diconnect the battery, unclip the "trigger" wire, undo two allen bolts and slideit out.
Is it really that easy or will I find something more scarey when I try? Also if anyone can tell me the allen key size needed for the main bolts that would be just groovy too.
Thanks heaps.
Mucklepilly.
Is it really that easy or will I find something more scarey when I try? Also if anyone can tell me the allen key size needed for the main bolts that would be just groovy too.
Thanks heaps.
Mucklepilly.
#3
#4
Sh*t, I know it couldn't be that easy. OK, now when I remover the outer primary cover is there anything that'll go clunk and fall down behind it never to be seen again or is it just a cast of drain it and remove the cover?
Are there any tricks to removing the jack shaft?
Is it normal to have to replace gasket(s) when you re-fit the cover?
What type of and how much oil will it take to re-fill it?
Questoins questions I know, but I'm gonna try this myself and I haven't worked on a Harley before.
Mucklepilly.
Are there any tricks to removing the jack shaft?
Is it normal to have to replace gasket(s) when you re-fit the cover?
What type of and how much oil will it take to re-fill it?
Questoins questions I know, but I'm gonna try this myself and I haven't worked on a Harley before.
Mucklepilly.
#5
1. Drain oil and remove cover
2. Remove jackshaft bolt.
3. Pull the starter.
I'd replace the cover gasket while your in there and check the primary chain tension. Any top grade oil that doesn't contain friction modifiers is fine for chaincase use, approx. 1 qt.
The side of the coupler with the longer splines goes on the starter. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Once you take the cover off, snap a couple pics of the assembly for future reference. Nothing will fall out that you cant easily recover. It's not a bad job, just sucks that it requires one to get oily.
2. Remove jackshaft bolt.
3. Pull the starter.
I'd replace the cover gasket while your in there and check the primary chain tension. Any top grade oil that doesn't contain friction modifiers is fine for chaincase use, approx. 1 qt.
The side of the coupler with the longer splines goes on the starter. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Once you take the cover off, snap a couple pics of the assembly for future reference. Nothing will fall out that you cant easily recover. It's not a bad job, just sucks that it requires one to get oily.
Last edited by reded; 05-11-2010 at 07:48 AM.
#6
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#8
#9
Reusing a gasket no matter how new is always a calculated risk. Replacing the gasket is a piece of mind. However, if the bolts aren't torqued properly you can bet it will leak, and you'll have to do the job over once again, with a "New" gasket and sealant. Now is the time to check the stator. Visually check the coils, and the wiring both inside and outside primary housing. Avoid handling stator coils, and do not rock back and forth to test sturdiness. Check inside flywheel cover for arcs. (Electrical spikes) And, lastly visually check the gears, chain for wear. You’re looking for abnormal wear. As this will affect how the chain rides on the pad. Check the Chain Tensioner pad. If the pad is worn excessively the chain tension is probably too tight. It needs to slack off some by its self. The Tensioner may be faulty. I replaced the Pad on mine for peace of mind. Check the tensioner groves carefully as they tend to wear down and will cause the chain to tighten or slacken prematurely. If there is any other signs of wear on the pad (irregular groves caused by chain whipping) replace the entire tensioner and pad. If in doubt ask questions. Always check and recheck your work. At least that’s how they taught us in the military. Hope this helps.
#10
Reusing a gasket no matter how new is always a calculated risk. Replacing the gasket is a piece of mind. However, if the bolts aren't torqued properly you can bet it will leak, and you'll have to do the job over once again, with a "New" gasket and sealant. Now is the time to check the stator. Visually check the coils, and the wiring both inside and outside primary housing. Avoid handling stator coils, and do not rock back and forth to test sturdiness. Check inside flywheel cover for arcs. (Electrical spikes) And, lastly visually check the gears, chain for wear. You’re looking for abnormal wear. As this will affect how the chain rides on the pad. Check the Chain Tensioner pad. If the pad is worn excessively the chain tension is probably too tight. It needs to slack off some by its self. The Tensioner may be faulty. I replaced the Pad on mine for peace of mind. Check the tensioner groves carefully as they tend to wear down and will cause the chain to tighten or slacken prematurely. If there is any other signs of wear on the pad (irregular groves caused by chain whipping) replace the entire tensioner and pad. If in doubt ask questions. Always check and recheck your work. At least that’s how they taught us in the military. Hope this helps.
Five year old thread.
He's probably got it by now.