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Question about Progressive 970's and lowering blocks???

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Old 02-08-2015, 08:34 PM
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Default Question about Progressive 970's and lowering blocks???

So I'm 5'6" and have short leg syndrome and recently put a 23" wheel up front and Progressive 970's that are 12.5". Now I'm back up on my toes and would like to be more flat footed. I'm definitely lowering the front about an 1-1.5" or so.

My question is would the performance of the 970's be hindered by putting on lowering blocks? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:42 PM
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It probably will some. Don't know if it will be enough that you will regret it though.
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:43 PM
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Let me ask a different question...why do you think you have to be flat-footed?
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
Let me ask a different question...why do you think you have to be flat-footed?

Don't need to be completely flat footed but getting my feet back down would be great.
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dyna_Bagger85
Don't need to be completely flat footed but getting my feet back down would be great.
Sincerely, not trying to be a tool...why do you need to do that?

The majority of super sport and adventure bikes have 33"-34" seat heights, and considering that you have to spread your legs apart to get the seat between them, you'd need a 36" inseam to flat foot one of those bikes. And given that we're talking about 150-190 bhp bikes, not flat footing doesn't seem to be a problem. Yes, I know, those bikes aren't as heavy as an HD Touring bike, but still...

Why would you increase the rear shock height, which raises the seat height, and then increase the front wheel size, which increases the seat height, and then want to reduce the seat height? I assume for the looks.

Since you cannot have both feed dragging as you come to a stop, because you MUST use the rear brake because you cannot use the front brake in low speed situations, you can't put your right foot down until after you come to a complete stop anyway. Then, as soon as you start to move away from a stop, both feet MUST come off the ground and go back on the pegs/boards. So, the only time you could even have both feet on the ground is when you're at a dead stop, when all you're doing is sitting there.

Honestly, and I'm only trying to help, I would suggest that if you don't want to take the bike back to stock, then you need to simply get more comfortable and confident while you sit at a stop with your left foot on the ground, and the bike balanced.

It's sure a hell of a lot cheaper than any other solution.
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
Sincerely, not trying to be a tool...why do you need to do that?

The majority of super sport and adventure bikes have 33"-34" seat heights, and considering that you have to spread your legs apart to get the seat between them, you'd need a 36" inseam to flat foot one of those bikes. And given that we're talking about 150-190 bhp bikes, not flat footing doesn't seem to be a problem. Yes, I know, those bikes aren't as heavy as an HD Touring bike, but still...

Why would you increase the rear shock height, which raises the seat height, and then increase the front wheel size, which increases the seat height, and then want to reduce the seat height? I assume for the looks.

Since you cannot have both feed dragging as you come to a stop, because you MUST use the rear brake because you cannot use the front brake in low speed situations, you can't put your right foot down until after you come to a complete stop anyway. Then, as soon as you start to move away from a stop, both feet MUST come off the ground and go back on the pegs/boards. So, the only time you could even have both feet on the ground is when you're at a dead stop, when all you're doing is sitting there.

Honestly, and I'm only trying to help, I would suggest that if you don't want to take the bike back to stock, then you need to simply get more comfortable and confident while you sit at a stop with your left foot on the ground, and the bike balanced.

It's sure a hell of a lot cheaper than any other solution.
Unlike all the other bikes I see with the jacked up back ends, I want lower but also have great suspension performance. Lowering blocks aren't that expensive versus trying to sell these and buy new ones. And I still have never done any front suspension upgrades but now funds are available for it.

It has nothin to do with confidence, more preference over anything. Youmay ride like your on a dirt bike so good for you. I'll ride and be comfortable how I want.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:25 AM
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Easy...19" front. Let the shocks do their job. Function over form always
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:52 PM
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I would think lowering blocks won't effect the performance of the shock very much, if at all. You aren't changing the shock just where it's mounted.
 
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:54 PM
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We get the flat footed approach. Some guys are good on their toes, most are not.

Lowering blocks push the lower shock mount further back. Couple of things result from this, first is the point at which the shock bottoms out in relation to the wheel position is changed. The potential for tire/fender conflicts is definitely increased (you'll know because your taillight will no longer work).

Next challenge with increasing the angle of the shock is it decreases the effective rate of the spring. Imagine a pillar holding up a building. In a vertical format it is very strong, the greater the angle of said pillar. the weaker it becomes.

Why does that matter? Lowering blocks reduce effective spring rate. Is that bad? It could be depending on your weight. Now that you understand the challenges you can make an informed decision.

Also look for potential interference between the shock and the block as it goes through its stroke.
 
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