Question about Progressive 970's and lowering blocks???
#1
Question about Progressive 970's and lowering blocks???
So I'm 5'6" and have short leg syndrome and recently put a 23" wheel up front and Progressive 970's that are 12.5". Now I'm back up on my toes and would like to be more flat footed. I'm definitely lowering the front about an 1-1.5" or so.
My question is would the performance of the 970's be hindered by putting on lowering blocks? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My question is would the performance of the 970's be hindered by putting on lowering blocks? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
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#5
The majority of super sport and adventure bikes have 33"-34" seat heights, and considering that you have to spread your legs apart to get the seat between them, you'd need a 36" inseam to flat foot one of those bikes. And given that we're talking about 150-190 bhp bikes, not flat footing doesn't seem to be a problem. Yes, I know, those bikes aren't as heavy as an HD Touring bike, but still...
Why would you increase the rear shock height, which raises the seat height, and then increase the front wheel size, which increases the seat height, and then want to reduce the seat height? I assume for the looks.
Since you cannot have both feed dragging as you come to a stop, because you MUST use the rear brake because you cannot use the front brake in low speed situations, you can't put your right foot down until after you come to a complete stop anyway. Then, as soon as you start to move away from a stop, both feet MUST come off the ground and go back on the pegs/boards. So, the only time you could even have both feet on the ground is when you're at a dead stop, when all you're doing is sitting there.
Honestly, and I'm only trying to help, I would suggest that if you don't want to take the bike back to stock, then you need to simply get more comfortable and confident while you sit at a stop with your left foot on the ground, and the bike balanced.
It's sure a hell of a lot cheaper than any other solution.
#6
Sincerely, not trying to be a tool...why do you need to do that?
The majority of super sport and adventure bikes have 33"-34" seat heights, and considering that you have to spread your legs apart to get the seat between them, you'd need a 36" inseam to flat foot one of those bikes. And given that we're talking about 150-190 bhp bikes, not flat footing doesn't seem to be a problem. Yes, I know, those bikes aren't as heavy as an HD Touring bike, but still...
Why would you increase the rear shock height, which raises the seat height, and then increase the front wheel size, which increases the seat height, and then want to reduce the seat height? I assume for the looks.
Since you cannot have both feed dragging as you come to a stop, because you MUST use the rear brake because you cannot use the front brake in low speed situations, you can't put your right foot down until after you come to a complete stop anyway. Then, as soon as you start to move away from a stop, both feet MUST come off the ground and go back on the pegs/boards. So, the only time you could even have both feet on the ground is when you're at a dead stop, when all you're doing is sitting there.
Honestly, and I'm only trying to help, I would suggest that if you don't want to take the bike back to stock, then you need to simply get more comfortable and confident while you sit at a stop with your left foot on the ground, and the bike balanced.
It's sure a hell of a lot cheaper than any other solution.
The majority of super sport and adventure bikes have 33"-34" seat heights, and considering that you have to spread your legs apart to get the seat between them, you'd need a 36" inseam to flat foot one of those bikes. And given that we're talking about 150-190 bhp bikes, not flat footing doesn't seem to be a problem. Yes, I know, those bikes aren't as heavy as an HD Touring bike, but still...
Why would you increase the rear shock height, which raises the seat height, and then increase the front wheel size, which increases the seat height, and then want to reduce the seat height? I assume for the looks.
Since you cannot have both feed dragging as you come to a stop, because you MUST use the rear brake because you cannot use the front brake in low speed situations, you can't put your right foot down until after you come to a complete stop anyway. Then, as soon as you start to move away from a stop, both feet MUST come off the ground and go back on the pegs/boards. So, the only time you could even have both feet on the ground is when you're at a dead stop, when all you're doing is sitting there.
Honestly, and I'm only trying to help, I would suggest that if you don't want to take the bike back to stock, then you need to simply get more comfortable and confident while you sit at a stop with your left foot on the ground, and the bike balanced.
It's sure a hell of a lot cheaper than any other solution.
It has nothin to do with confidence, more preference over anything. Youmay ride like your on a dirt bike so good for you. I'll ride and be comfortable how I want.
#7
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#9
We get the flat footed approach. Some guys are good on their toes, most are not.
Lowering blocks push the lower shock mount further back. Couple of things result from this, first is the point at which the shock bottoms out in relation to the wheel position is changed. The potential for tire/fender conflicts is definitely increased (you'll know because your taillight will no longer work).
Next challenge with increasing the angle of the shock is it decreases the effective rate of the spring. Imagine a pillar holding up a building. In a vertical format it is very strong, the greater the angle of said pillar. the weaker it becomes.
Why does that matter? Lowering blocks reduce effective spring rate. Is that bad? It could be depending on your weight. Now that you understand the challenges you can make an informed decision.
Also look for potential interference between the shock and the block as it goes through its stroke.
Lowering blocks push the lower shock mount further back. Couple of things result from this, first is the point at which the shock bottoms out in relation to the wheel position is changed. The potential for tire/fender conflicts is definitely increased (you'll know because your taillight will no longer work).
Next challenge with increasing the angle of the shock is it decreases the effective rate of the spring. Imagine a pillar holding up a building. In a vertical format it is very strong, the greater the angle of said pillar. the weaker it becomes.
Why does that matter? Lowering blocks reduce effective spring rate. Is that bad? It could be depending on your weight. Now that you understand the challenges you can make an informed decision.
Also look for potential interference between the shock and the block as it goes through its stroke.
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