I have a 2011 Street Bob that I ride 110 mile round trip for work. It has 12,000 miles on it. I just put a new V&H competition series exhaust on it 2 days ago. (which is similar to a two stroke, almost hits a powerband up in midrange and flys) On my way home today I was having some fun with her and had the rpms way up for a couple minutes, speed around 70 in third if that helps. car moved out of my way and I twisted the end off the bar, bike hit redline for a split second, when i hit fourth it was like the injectors quit firing or it quit getting spark. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/image...con_toliet.gif I thought I had blown it up, before i cruised onto the shoulder or even lost position, it fired back up. I ride pretty hard and this is the first hiccup I have had out of this bike. I redline it weekly or more. it usually taps on the governer like most computerized cars do. What could this be?

Sidenote-I did NOT buy a programmer. I was told by a very reputable mechanic that the ECM is already an autotuner like a thundermax. He wants me to take the bike to him to dyno this weekend to make sure the map is good. It is Jims Cycle down in Axtell, TX. Sorry for the life story.

 

It sounds to me like you just hit the rev limiter. When I hit it on my sporty the first time I thought I blew the motor for a second. I shifted it about the same time I hit it so I think you actually hit it in third gear and it just seemed like 4th.

There is no purpose in having the bike dyno'ld without having a tuner. It has the stock map and it can't be changed without a tuner or the worthless harley download.

The way you ride, you will want to open up the A/C and eventually get a tuner. You don't have to...but you will not believe the difference. The tuner can also raise the rev limiter so you won't have that happen again.

I'm not sure where Axtell is but if you ever want to come down to my neck of the woods, I know a great tuner. He tunes the new stage one bikes for 2 of the local harley dealers because they know he can dial it in much better then they can.

 

I definitely hit the limiter in third, but when I put it in 4, the bike was dead. just spinning on back pressure. I was twisting the gas and only getting the sound of opening or closing the choke on a lawnmower trying to start. Lemme try. Chigga-chigga-chigga-chugga-chugga-chugga. Yep, thats it. I was thinking that maybe there is an overheat shutdown or something, but no lights ever came on. thing fired up and got gone again. Axtell is Northeast of Waco on Hwy 31 a few miles. Jims is a must stop if you are that way. Really cool place.

 

She done "blowed-up"...for 15-seconds, at least.

 

if your speedo flatlined , you lost connection at the battery for a moment... a loose negative battery cable is a common problem on these bikes

 

Check both the neg. and the pos cable at both ends.

The pos cable to the starter was not even fastened down on my 10 Superglide. Went all the way to this year when it cut out on the road like yours did.

You can not see it or reach it well as it is just under the back bottom of the battery case. Remove the battery and tighten both the negative and positive posts. The positive post on the starter is under a rubber boot. It was over a 1/4 inch from being tightened. The bend of the cable was just enough to make contact unless a big bump is encountered.

 

Just to clear something up- the stock ECM is NOT like an auto tuner. It may make some adjustments but only to a certain point, and it is not tunable. With the TMax, the auto tuner is a separate module that you add to the TMax ECM. As you ride, the system creates tuning offsets. Once you have put some miles on the map and created enough offsets you then can run a process which applies those tuning offsets to the current map. That gives you a better, updated map to run with.

 

I had similar problem with my 06, and tightened both positive and negative cables at battery, only to happen again after many miles and vibrations. Finally got smart and put on lock washers, not a problem since.