I recently installed a Reduced Reach foward control kit on my already existing foward controls on my 07FXDB. I really love the kit, It put the pegs in the exact place i wanted them and im now much more comfortable on the bike.

The problem i have is that the new brake rod is not threaded all the way up to the rod, unlike the standard rod for foward controls. Therefore theres not as much adjustment in the pedal height. I currently have it adjusted down as far as it goes and the pedal is still to high and uncomfortable for me.

Can i simply remove the jam nut to get a few more turns of adjustment? Id assume the jam nut is there for a reason, But ive seen a few bikes without them with no issues.

My other option is to finish MOCOs threading job on the 1/4"-3/8" left on the brake rod shank. (the orig brake rod is threaded all the way to the bar)

I can add pictures if needed.

Any input is appreciated.

 

If that little thickness of the nut will give you the adjustment you need you could probably get rid of it. Worst thing that could happen is it will slowly unthread and raise the pedal. You will notice long before it unthreads enough to fall out. If you're going to do that I'd just put some loc tite on the threads and check it once in a while. If you're going to crank the adjuster in all the way that will help hold it tight too.

 

Hey thanks for your reply vdop.

Once the brake rod is secured to the brake lever up front, it cannot turn much anyways. However it might still wallow back and forth a bit, and in that case the loctite would probably do the trick. Im more worried about the lack of pressure on the threads could possibly cause shearing due to the constant off and on tugging

 

Oh man, you've been disconnecting it at the pedal to adjust it this whole time huh? You can turn the adjuster rod that goes into the master. That's the part that I'm talking about turning. I see what you're saying if it were loose in there, but if you crank it in enough to bottom the threads and It's tight it should be fine.

 

Ive only removed it once to adjust but yes i was not aware you could keep turning the master cylinder bolt to make the adjustment. Lol you learn something new everyday! Either way. I find removing the pin up front pretty easy. If i can bottom it out completely that probably would work though, hopefully its not to far down when done that way. Thanks again man.

 

Haha np, dont feel bad I probably did it 20 times before I learned that. Sometimes the pin at the pedal is a bitch to get out.

 

Went ahead and removed the nut and screwed the rod all the way in and it feels about right. Toe touching the brake at all times but not pressing it like before. Wont know until i ride. Ill have to thread the remaining bit to bring it down anymore.

Should your toes always be touching/resting on the pedal? I spent so long with the previous setup where i had to point my toes to use the rear brake that i got used to it. First bike so im unsure. Guess it might be personal preference.

 

I should also add:

I attempted to use the adjuster nut on the master cylinder to undo the brake rod and its actually changing the travel amount of the brake arm. To the point where it was applying the rear brake after about 4-5 turns, and to where it was running the brake arm into the control mounts. I had to turn it back into place and still remove the clevis pin. It was taking all of the slack out of the pedal completely.